Crevasse rescue

As a crevasse rescue procedure is called to the rescue of a climber from a crevasse. Depending on the situation come of it, various methods are used.

Techniques

Large cliques

In large groups, at best, from four climbers, the method of team train is usually applied. In this case, the victim is pulled by a majority of the team, only the mountaineers of the column nearest- charged with communication tasks. The problem is the risk of further injury to the casualty because the train on the rope is very large. Possibly the rope cuts into the ice at the column border and to -saving is pulled against the wall of ice, which can mainly thoracic injuries happen.

Triple - cliques

For a three - cliques is the salvage already much more complex and it comes loose roller for use. During the rearmost ( farthest from the column) climbers it takes to secure the Middle, this secure stand can create. Preferably, an ice screw is used. If this is not possible, even an ice pick can be dug transversely to train the rope into the snow. Then the train of the rope is transmitted to the anchor by a Cord, which is secured by the stand builders by its weight. Thus, the rearmost climber is relieved and can move to the column border. The loose end of the rope is then lowered with a threaded carabiner strap for the victim. It now depends on the carabiner in the tie-in point his climbing harness, creating a turning point is created, which allows for easier pulling up, similar to a cable. As a backstop another accessory cord is attached by Prusik knot.

Self-rescue

If the group is not able to pull the fallen man from the column, the victim must save themselves. By means of two cords can be created by Prusik knot climbing slings, with which one can climb up to the column border. This works by alternating exposure of the cords, one of which is mounted on and a leg height above head height. The bottom is fixed to a foot, so that the climber can press upward with the upper accessory cord is pushed further before again takes over the load so that the leg loop can be tightened.

You can over the column border also so not arrive because the rope is cut ( by the stress created pressure on the ice, which melts down ) and you can not push the loops. First, now the lower accessory cord is removed and a backstop (eg Garda loop ) linked at the tie-in point and out through this the loose end of the rope, which in turn acts as a diversion. Now the rope must still carried a carbine, which is attached to the upper Cord and it was made a cable. With its help, the climber can now pull up and relieve the cable according to the column edge by abstemmt with the feet. This allows the accessory cord slide over the column border and the victim can free itself completely from the column.