Crozzon di Brenta

Seen from the north, in the background left the Cima Tosa

The Crozzon di Brenta ( Italian: croz, steep cliffs) is with 3135 meters is the third highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites, a mountain range in the Southern Limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trentino. The Crozzon is a powerful Felsberg, its about 900 meters high north-east face rises almost vertically above the northerly Val Brenta ( Brenta ) and thereby gives it a wide geographical dominance over the area. He is a popular destination for mountaineers and climbers with its imposing appearance, ease of accessibility and attractive routes. Was first climbed the Crozzon on August 8, 1884 by the Leipzig professor Karl Schulz and mountain guide, Matteo Nicolussi from Molveno from the south via the Cima Tosa.

Geology

The Crozzon part of the southern central part of the Brenta, whose shaping rock, the extremely hard Hauptdolomit, is present here in a thickness of about 1000 meters. When alpidic orogeny, the sedimentary rock was not arched as in limestone or shale, but broken, the area gave the rugged character with its vertical towers and massive rock walls. The main dolomite has about 40 to 50 meters on thick layers of different dolomite rock that forms by different weathering the horizontal or slightly inclined distinctive bands. These bands made ​​possible only by their walkability the tourist development of the Brenta in the 19th century.

Environment

The Crozzon is after the Cima Tosa and Cima Brenta is the third highest peak in the Brenta. The firnbedeckte Cima Tosa, with a height of 3173 meters, is located just south in the craggy burr profile. To the west is the famous Tosarinne extends the small glaciers Vedretta Camosci, in the East ( also called Canalone Neri ), a 50 ° inclined and 900 -meter-high ice channel between the walls of the Cima Tosa and Crozzon. Other neighboring mountains are in the east, the Cima Margherita with 2845 meters above sea level and the 2960 -meter-high Cima Brenta Alta. In the west are the 2880 meter high Cima Fracinglo II, the Cima Nardis ( 2623 m) and some other, more minor peaks with altitudes up to 2600 meters. To the north the area from ( water level to 800 meters ) drops almost vertically into the Brenta Valley, east to Lake Moveno and to the west the terrain runs down into Val d ' Agola. Nearest towns are in the northwest, the approximately 8.5 line kilometers away Madonna di Campiglio in Campigliotal, 7.5 km away to the east and Molveno good 9 km in the south, San Lorenzo in banality.

Climbing history

In contrast to the Cima Tosa the Crozzon was because of its rugged and resistant steepness long considered unclimbable. Julius von Payer described him in 1864 as the true rock tower of magnificence never before seen. Douglas William Freshfield, who stood in 1873 on the summit of Cima Tosa, noted: Its peak may be achieved one day, but it's crossing a chasm, and the Matterhorn has no more terrible crashes ( the gap above the Tosarinne is now in the literature specified with the difficulty UIAA II, but in the big exposedness ). Yet 1882 was the Italian alpinists Alberto de Falkner and Annibale Apollonio for the position of unersteiglich. A first attempt to reach the Crozzon, took on 16 July 1882 mountain guide M. Nicolussi with the Austrian geographer Oskar Baumann, but they failed on a tooth of rock just below the main summit. On July 19, Edward Theodore Compton tried with A. de Falkner, led by Dallagiacoma and later to M. -down Nicolussi to climb the Crozzon without touching the Cima Tosa. They came from the northwest via the Vedretta Camosci and climbed through a dark Eiskamin. Dallagiacoma hit his ice ax steps by step, and Compton remarked: We were glad to finally step out of the icy path to the warm rock, especially several times stones and icicles were vorbeigesaust to us. But they came only three days earlier piled by O. Baumann Steinmann. After 12 hours, they also had to turn in the same place, the crags was insurmountable for them. Only two years later, on August 2, 1884, another attempt should be made. On the Tosahütte (now Rifugio Pedrotti Tomaso called ) met the Leipzig scientist Karl Schulz M. Nicolussi, as well as the Italians de Falkner and Pigozzi with their guides Antonio Dallagiacoma and Ferrari together. Both groups had the intention to climb the Crozzon, they agreed and decided to stay in a tent below the Camosci glacier. On August 3, we stopped by 5 U. 15, followed the same route as Nicolussi in 1882 and reached approximately the point at which all previous attempts had failed, Pigozzi had to stay behind earlier. Ferrari, Schulz and Nicolussi wanted to further overcome the ensuing steep wall than the left on the Plateau de Falconer with reference to the advanced time, and the fact can that you would no longer be in time with the tired Pigozzi descend, should better turn back. Charles Schulz writes: In a little disturbed harmony you went back over the Tosa to the refuge. The group spent 15 hours on the road. On August 8, it was time. Schulz and Nicolussi broke without the expected, but not published de Falkner by 4 clock in the morning (later turned out that de Falkner wanted to make the first ascent of Crozzon another declared for August 9 group). This time they crossed the Cima Tosa and stood around 7 U. 35 above the Tosarinne. Then they overcame the upstream crags of Crozzon. At 10 clock they reached the summit plateau.

In the weeks after the occurrence, but also the direct ascent over the Camosci Glacier was always under the leadership of M. Nicolussi, repeated several times. In the 1890s, then took his younger brother Bonifacio the lead on the Crozzon.

Bases and routes

The path of the first ascent to the Crozzon from 1884 is still the normal route, the easiest climb. First, the Cima Tosa must be defeated, which can be achieved by the Rifugio Pedrotti Tomaso at 2496 meters altitude in a walking time of about 2 hours Difficulty UIAA I and II. Exceeding the Crozzon lasts, according to the literature, an additional 1 to 2 hours in very exposed the UIAA grade II On the top of Crozzon is a bivouac, the Bivouac Ettore Castiglioni, for four people. Additional offices are the Rifugio Agostini Silvio ( 2410 m ) south location, as well as the Rifugio XII Apostoli, 2489 meters high in the southwest.

Since 1911 also serious climbing routes through the massive, almost vertical walls, such as the Preußroute, named after Paul Preuss were opened by the northeast wall in today's UIAA grade IV . In the 1930s, heavier climbs were added, such as the Via delle Guide in UIAA grade V . In 1965, through the east wall the Livanosroute opened ( key point UIAA VI ) and the Steinkötter rise at French pillars, UIAA VI. Finally in 1980 came nor the New Line in the UIAA grade V to do so.

The Tosarinne was climbed first on July 21, 1929 at alone of Vergilio Neri and subsequently received the name Canalone Neri.

Sources and maps

  • Raymond of Klebelsberg: Geological guide to the South Tyrolean Dolomites, Berlin 1928
  • Douglas William Freshfield: Italian Alps. Sketches in the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino, and Venetia, London 1875
  • Edward Theodore Compton in The Alpine Journal, Volume XI, London 1882
  • Heinz Steinkötter: Alpine Club leaders Brenta Group, Munich, 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1311-7
  • Alpine Club map 1:25,000, sheet 51, Brenta Group
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