Dynamic rope

Climbing ropes or climbing ropes are ropes that serve as an aid in climbing, securing the climber and alpine climbing and locomotion ( for example, when abseiling or Jümarn ).

Until the 1960s, the Mountaineers had to rely on ropes made of hemp fibers. Rope cracks were not uncommon, and led to numerous fatal accidents. Ropes made ​​of artificial silk, which filled nearly the rope climbing ropes today's standards, were very expensive and found little spread.

Modern climbing ropes are made of the plastic polyamide and generally have a core-sheath structure on: A core of interwoven fibers is surrounded by a sheath that protects it from damage. The core bears the brunt ( Exception: tree climbing ropes ). Climbing ropes are distinguished according to their use in dynamic ropes strain (strain at 8 per cent) and semi- static ropes (strain 2-5 percent). The minimum strength values ​​of the climbing ropes now available in Germany are standardized according to stipulations of the UIAA. In addition, climbing ropes must meet certain European standards as part of the personal protective equipment and bear the CE marking, to be sold may. After the rope standards single ropes, double ropes and twin ropes are distinguished.

Climbing ropes are used both in climbing as well as mountain rescue and rescue from heights and from the fire department in the field of fall protection.

• 2.1 impregnation
• 2.2 center marker
• 2.3 Duodess
• 2.4 Trio Dess

• 3.1 Storage
• 3.2 Change of the rope
• 3.3 durability of a rope

Types of ropes

Dynamic Ropes

Because of their ductility dynamic ropes can ( EN 892 ) record fall energy and thereby reduce the impact force acting on the climber to a tolerable level for the human body. They are used in sport climbing and climbing in alpine. There are three types of dynamic ropes:

Single rope

In the climbing gym and climbing using ropes are used whose diameter is from 8.9 to 11 mm. Such a cable must meet the following requirements 892 according to the European standard EN

• Standard falls: at least five falls with 80 kg of weight fall at fall factor 1.75.
• Impact force: a maximum of 12 kN at the first standard fall
• Rope elongation: a maximum of 10 percent under a static load of 80 kg, and a maximum of 40 percent during the first standard fall
• Node width: maximum of 1.1 times the rope diameter (measured on an overhand knot under a defined load )
• Sheath slippage: a maximum of 1 percent ( measured by the standard test method )

Twin rope

Twin ropes ( ⌀ 7-8 mm) occur only in the double strand used. They are used when long climbs routes with good belay points and then also rappelling again about this. This is done using two thin parallel twin ropes as you would use a single rope, that is, one always hooked both ropes into the intermediate fuses. A single twin rope holding the maximum load that could withstand a single rope, was not, so it should never be used alone. When alpine climbing is climbing usually with half or twin ropes. In the more recent literature alpine rope types is often not a clear distinction between the latter two. Its main advantages are the possibility of roping over the full rope length and in the greater margin of safety through redundancy ( in the Alpine history there was still no rope accident with double rope, in which both strands were torn due to heavy traffic, but there were already accidents because the ropes ran over sharp stone edges and were thus cut like a knife ).

In standard drop tests twin ropes are tested in a double strand with a weight of 80 kg. You have to endure twelve such standard falls.

Half rope

Half ropes ( ⌀ 8-9 mm), sometimes also called double rope, can be used to simultaneously backing up two Nachsteigern. Another advantage of the half ropes against the twin ropes is the ability to mount the rope at the Vorstiegssicherung individually ( thereby reduced cable friction when a rope in fuses left, the other is hooked in the right fuse the climbing line). However, they are slightly heavier than twin ropes. The standard drop test is performed with a 55 -pound weight on the single strand. When roping is with two half ropes the full rope length.

Static ropes

Static ropes ( EN 1891, ⌀ 9-13 mm, also: Speleoseile ) have a lower working elongation of not more than five percent compared to dynamic ropes. Therefore, these ropes are also often called semi- static, because the term static rope wrongly suggested that these ropes show any signs of strain.

The opposite dynamic ropes lower elongation improves its handling as a fixed rope. Therefore, they find canyoning or caving, mountain rescue, the rescue from heights, fall protection and construction of mobile high ropes courses use.

However, they may not be used to secure climbing lead climbing, as in a possible fall with a fall factor > 1, such a high impact force could occur that serious injury and material failure are the result.

Layout and appearance similar to that of a dynamic climbing rope. Static ropes are usually made ​​of polyamide fibers and are constructed in a core-sheath structure.

Tree climbing ropes

An exception to the construction form the climbing rope to the tree climbing as they are mainly used in the rope-assisted tree care. These cables have a higher proportion jacket bearing the brunt. They are therefore referred to as a sheath core hurry.

Special

Climbing ropes are subjected to on a regular basis certain tests that are published in scientific publications, which contributes to the fact that the manufacturers they continue to develop and improve steadily.

Impregnation

Among the most important developments include the impregnation. It protects the cable by preventing the penetration of water and dirt. Wet ropes are more difficult and challenging to handle. In addition, the dynamic performance of the cable is significantly reduced. This is a problem especially when climbing or winter. Dirt, which comes under the mantle, directly engages the core. This increases the load on the rope, and it needs to be replaced sooner.

Center marker

Center marks used as an outline. They allow you to give the lead climber know when it has reached the half of the pitch. Especially for single ropes they facilitate abseiling.

Duodess

In a Duodess rope the first and second halves are marked by a different coat pattern. This creates a permanent mark the center of the rope. This development was the reaction of the rope manufacturer to accidents that were on cable markers that attack the sheath or core chemically due.

Trio Dess

In Trio Dess- ropes of the critical region, the last 7-9 meters before the end of the rope is similar to the deferred Duodess rope by another coat pattern from the rest of the rope. This mark allows the safe to let them know when it is time for a stand, or show when again a cheap place must be found for a stand during abseiling in multi-pitch routes.

The proper handling of the rope

Storage

To keep the cable aging as low as possible, the cable should be in a dark, cool and dry place. A sling or accessory cord (not on a rope loop ) can also be used for hanging storage, but no contact with chemicals should (eg lubricants ) or acids (including car batteries, etc.) occur.

Replacement of the rope

• Mechanical injury (visible eg core, mantle, strongly displaced, furry coat, ...)
• Abrasion
• Melt combustion
• Pollution
• High load when wet
• Tangles (with accumulation of the formation of tangles )

Durability of a rope

If the rope does not have been renewed on any of the grounds listed in " replacement of the rope ," it still has a recommended shelf life:

The following applies: Investing in a new rope rather early active than risking your own life!

Rope climbing cracks

Rope cracks are extremely rare in climbing since the introduction of the core shroud rope. From 1983 to 2012 the DAV 17 cable cracks were known, almost all in alpine terrain. The most frequent causes were there sharp edge falls, ie falls, where the rope over sharp (rock ) edges or ridges running.