Mandarin collar

The stand-up collar is an essential feature of the shirt style in the 19th and early 20th century. This collar style was worn mainly from around 1850. Nowadays, fashionable shirts have a collar, which covers the narrow tie part.

Parricide

The stand-up collar has been colloquially referred to as parricide. For this purpose, there are several obvious explanations: The term is based on a translation error. In France, called the stand-up collar parasite, either because he was just a additive to buttons to the shirt, so alone could not exist or because if its proximity to the mouth easily be put leftovers to him, he therefore, blackheads became the parasites. Since a similar -sounding French word parricide, however, means parricide, this name originated in Germany. One popular explanation is the constricting because of the stiffness and height property of the stand-up collar, which could thus its carrier, the father kill.

Nature and cause

The stand-up collar was unbuttoned at the time of his collarless shirts. Next he was open. The stand-up collar is a very genteel collar for special occasions. Shirts with high collar can be worn especially in connection to tuxedo, tails and cut; always belongs to a loop and no tie.

Uniform collar

Also as a stand-up collar is referred to the emerging around the middle of the 19th century uniform collar. These collars were originally placed at the Adam's apple and with strong deposit from linen, often also metal rods firmly incorporated into or removed provided. The collars were occasionally very high, a nod of the head is limited, forcing the carrier to a " snooty " head posture. In general, the collars in the color of the cuffs and piping, notwithstanding were worked from the base. In team uniforms were dispensed on the stiffeners, in order to make use in the field. Since the uniforms could be worn without a shirt collar, but dense plants on the neck, they were inside with a tick - usually in white, herausknöpfbar and washable.

Today's stand-up collars are cut to the neck and not go much higher than the Adam's apple. Since they are now working half-round, they are no longer available from. Instead, they fall inwards towards the neck from back, which gives them the same appearance as before. Although they no longer are characterized as restrictive and uncomfortable, but they have this bad reputation is not completely lost.

Uniform - up collar:

Antoine de Jomini

USA

Sources and links

  • Neck and collar shape
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