Munter hitch
The half hitch is a knot that is used when climbing and mountaineering for dynamic hedging of the climbing party.
Name and history
The Munter hitch, also half hitch fuse or short- HMS, is one of the most important hubs for mountaineering. By using it in alpine sports from about 1970 a significant improvement in security technology is carried out in the rock - like ice climbing.
The alleged inventor of the half hitch is the Swiss Werner Munter. By no later than 1965, the node has been taught as a cable cross brake at the Army mountain guide training course of the Bundeswehr in the Makeshift mountain rescue. In the literature, among other things, a chance discovery made in 1969 is mentioned during a climbing expedition. According Pit Schubert the Munter hitch, however, is even older and was already used in the 30s by Russian climbers. Probably used in ancient times the Phoenicians these nodes have to Losfieren of ships.
The half hitch was presented at a meeting UIAA 1971 in Trento by the Italian delegation and also by the Swiss Werner Munter. Since that time he has become generally established as a backup node. In English, ie, the node also Munter Hitch.
Application
The half hitch is used for dynamic security when climbing. A fall would be deadly if you would be abruptly decelerated by an inflexible tether after a few meters. Therefore, dynamic climbing ropes are climbing a) used the brake the fall by its strain, and b) a dynamic hedging technique in which the rope is still somewhat by the backup device and is thereby slowed down by friction. Among the occurring forces see crash ( accident).
When half hitch the rope runs through a carabiner and allows the secured person, the climber out as much rope as needed this for his movements in the rock. Crash on Climbing However, the security partner holds the fuse end of the rope, so that tightens the knot and the rope itself slows down and oppresses the fall dynamically and stops.
Be to the good functioning of securing carabiner must always away with the closure hooked in from the brake hand (Otherwise, the closure can be screwed on and pressed the brakes the rope. ). The brake hand must hold the brake cable permanently enough and take in sufficient distance from the carbine and lie in the cable direction. Too loose (also late ) Grasp the rope would let slip through and cause burn injuries to the hand and possibly letting go and crash the party. About the bracket can be adjusted better while rappelling rope run as with manual friction; the rope is more likely to lead back in the direction from which the rope to be secured arrives (not both together to grasp ). Note that nothing is drawn into the current HMS nodes, such as clothing, hair, belt or glove. The belayer should not be much lighter than the belayer to.
In addition to the sport and alpine climbing the half hitch is also used in the high ranges and cave rescue as well as fall protection at the fire department.
Holding force
The IFSC safety circuit determined braking forces of the HMS on fixed point from 1.7 to 3.0 kN depending on the hand strength of the belayer for single ropes (10 to 11 mm ) and a fall factor of 0.4. With falls in the state with a fall factor 2, the determined braking forces were 2.0 to 4.8 kN. With this braking force, it is also weak people possible to hold a fall.
Tie
Only special carabiner may be used with appropriate safety lock for the half hitch. The rope is twisted to one eye and this is inserted into the carabiner ( click). The rope is then again inserted in opposite directions ( click). The gesture must be automated for safe use (2 times click). The knot should always be monitored by a security partner.
Alternatives
- An automatic braking action (eg Grigri ) achieved with automatic belay devices.
- For the pure sport climbing in the climbing and the climbing gym for securing tubes are often used (eg ATC).
- Only applicable limited is a fuse of the descender.
- As HMS double the braking effect is enhanced.
Double HMS
- Put two eyes on each other: A
- Place first (big ) eye through the carabiner, second (smaller) eye on the carbine: B
- C: by pass the end through the carbine over the small eye and under the larger eye
- D: ( second variant) engage with the carbine
- E: the final, tightened, Double HMS ( Abseilrichtung upwards in the picture, the lower - end of the fixed point / hook )