Pattern (sewing)

As a pattern is referred to in tailoring the paper templates ( pattern pieces ), according to which material is cut.

In general, the cuts for a particular model of most manufacturers are available in several sizes. The two-dimensional pattern is a three-dimensional garment items disassembled dar.

History and Development

Pattern sheets are known since the 19th century, the American businessman Ebenezer Butterick invented the pattern sheets 1863. Through Aenne Burda magazine Burda Moden they were used in Germany in the postwar period. Were added, the booklet patterns at on paper sheet, after which models could be nachgeschneidert at home. There was, however, already in the 18th century German fashion magazines with instructions for self- cutters and sectional drawings, the forerunners of the pattern sheets.

Single cuts

A pattern, in which all the pattern pieces are arranged side by side on the sheet, also called single or finishing cut. The individual parts can easily be cut out as in any size. A single section usually consists of cutting sheets, sewing and model image. Drawings and step-by -step instructions facilitate additional sewing.

Pattern sheet

On the pattern sheet all sections of a specification are mapped. To accommodate everything, the sheets are printed on both sides and placed the pattern pieces so space-saving as possible. Here, the individual parts, which is why they can not just cut out overlap. To sew a specific model, the corresponding cut is with a special copy paper " traced " or the like on foil, tissue paper by drawn. A system of special contour lines ( lines size ), different line styles ( dashed, dotted, solid), numbers and colors helps in tracing.

To transfer of the pattern on the fabric or so-called chalk print wheel can be used, care being taken to the thread run. This is indicated in the rule per item by an arrow on the form.

On the submission of a cutting pattern are often still more information to find, facilitate the processing:

• So-called " clippers " (also " freemartin " ) mark sites for cutting. They stand at a 90 ° angle from the outer edge inwards from and are very short - they often mark on opposite sides of an edge at which the material is to be later folded or folded. Due to the already included seam allowance of an average of one to two centimeters the freemartin are no longer included in the finished workpiece.
• Break - lines: they are recorded within a template and usually not pulled through to the outside, to avoid being accidentally cut.
• In some parts also cut center lines ( center front or center back ) are marked.
• Some instructions use quilting stencils: In contrast to the usual cutting templates these are not intended for cutting the fabric but are transferred to an already tailored piece with chalk or similar and mark a seam that is not along an edge, but the middle of the piece of fabric is recognized.
• If there can be lines drawn for the upheavals of the documents. Documents are also in these cases for gusset that are not sewn from a separate piece, but through repeated folding of edges.

Literature about creating patterns

• Guido Mayrhofen Bitzer: Clothing. Interface design for women's fashion. Volume 1: clothing, basics. Europe teaching aids, Haan- Gruiten 2009, ISBN 978-3-8085-6236-9.
• Dennic Chunman Lo: interface development. Stiebner, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-8307-0875-9.