Schwarzenstein (Zillertal Alps)

The black stone seen from the west

The Black Stone (Italian Sasso Nero ) is a 3369 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps. About him is the boundary between the Italian province of South Tyrol and the Austrian state of Tyrol.

First ascent

The traditional first ascent was made in August of 1852 as part of the national survey. Under the leadership of First Lieutenant Langner was ascended from the south Luttago in Ahrntal. The first tourist ascension took place through the Floitengrund of Ginzling on 31 August 1858 by the North. The mountain guide Georg Samer led a group of tourists consisting of Mr. Anton von Ruthner, Josef thumb and Ludwid of Barth.

Location

The Black Stone sends out to the northeast, south and north-west ridges, the black stone - south ridge running south-east from Ahrntal. Are extensive glacier areas between the ridges. In the north lies the flat accumulation area of Floitenkees, in the southeast to the steep Rotbachkees, to the southwest the Schwarzenbachkees and to the northwest the Schwarzensteinkees. Adjacent peaks to the north, separated by the fissured hanging black stone saddle the Great Mörchner with 3,283 meters of altitude, in the northeast of the Floitenspitzen ( highest peak 3194 m) and the Great Löffler with 3,376 meters. In the southwest, separated by the Schwarzenbach Charter, is the III. Called horn tip, and tip Berlin, with 3,253 meters of altitude. The black stone was used by the 1980 to 1993 as a transmitter site for private FM radio (Radio M1). The ranges of here were very high. Apart Tyrol, Salzburg and Upper Austria and the south of Bavaria, and in good weather also receive messages from Thuringia, Hesse, Lower Saxony and Sweden were recorded.

Bases and tours

The black stone is to be celebrated because of its glaciated flanks just as high tour with proper equipment and experience. The easiest ascent ( Normal ) follows from the way the first riser of the black stone hut ( Rifugio Vittorio Veneto, 2,923 m). The road to this cabin leads from Luttago in Ahrntal up. From the hut it comes in 1 ½ hours over the crevassed Rotbachkees west over the northeast ridge in, according to the literature, easy climbing ( UIAA I) for most aperen summit. Also from the Berliner Hütte (in 5 hours) and the Greizer hut (in 4 hours) of the black stone is often committed by a timeout.

Sources and maps

  • Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier: Alpine Club leaders Zillertal Alps, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
  • Alpine Club map 1:25,000, sheet 35/2, Zillertal Alps, middle

Black stone from the maple top, ie from the north-west, seen

From the south, in the foreground Tures Castle and raised hide Neumelans

Italy Map series
717409
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