Tschenglser Hochwand

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The Tschenglser high wall ( Italian: Croda di Cengles ), is a 3375 meter high mountain in the Laas mountains in the Ortler Alps, a mountain range of the Southern Eastern Alps. It is located in the Italian province of South Tyrol. Your name carries the high wall on the northern site Tschengls ( Cengles ) in the Vinschgau (Val Venosta ). To the north- west, east and south-west, it sends distinct, partially accessible burrs. The mountain has seen from the north the form of a flat rock pyramid. Its northern wall is, however, to climb only in difficult rock climbing. He is due to its good panoramic view in all directions and the easy accessibility of the Zaytalhütte ( Rifugio Serristori, former Düsseldorf refuge ) from an often committed a ski tour in winter summit. Was first climbed the Tschenglser high wall on 3 September 1871, the Prague alpinists Victor Pike and the mountain guide, Johann Pinggera.

Environment

Glaciers are found in the Tschenglser high wall just to the east. South of Ostgrats is the Small Angelus addition ( Vedretta dell ' Angelo Piccolo) and extends north of Tschenglser addition ( Vedretta di Cengles ). Adjacent Mountains are in the course of Ostgrats the 3306 meter high Schafbergspitze ( Cima delle Pecore ), south thereafter is separated by the lying in 3224 meters altitude path transition Zayjoch ( Passo di zai), the Small Angelus tip ( L' Angelo Piccolo) with 3318 meters. During the south-eastern ridge is about two and a half kilometers from the rear Schoeneck ( Dosso Bello di Sentro, 3143 m) and in the course of Nordwestgrats then at a distance of about two kilometers of the Pederfick ( Pietrafitta) with 3114 meters of altitude. To the north the high wall drops down to the Vinschgau Valley, for running from southwest to northeast Zay Valley (Valle di zai) it forms the north-eastern end of the valley. The nearest major settlements are the ski resort Solda ( Solda ) in Suldental, the Tschenglser high wall is about five and a half kilometers in a straight line south-west, and Tschengls, located about five kilometers north.

Base and ascent

The Way of Pike and Pinggera in September 1871 led by Solda in the southwest by the Zay Valley up to a notch in the southwest ridge of high wall. Your descent led by the Razoital and the bull Alpe back to Solda. For the access they needed nearly five hours. This route is still the normal route, the easiest climb. As the base Zaytalhütte can serve at an altitude of 2721 meters. The way is now in places equipped with cable insurance and is committed very often. However, there is a gutter that leads to the ridge, in the summer of rockfall danger in winter for ski mountaineers avalanche danger. The walk takes about 2 ½ hours, according to literature from the cottage. Other increases lead since 1899 by the south wall ( Erich Otto route ) as Via Ferrata, since 1896 over the eastern ridge with climbing sites in the UIAA grade III, since 1893 through the 400 -meter-high north wall ( high wall ) ( UIAA grade III) and as Gratübergang off the rear Schoeneck, 1885 celebrated with a key point in the UIAA grade III .

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Volume II, Berlin, Munich, Vienna 1871
  • Eduard Richter (Editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II, published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin, 1894
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet
Italy First ascent As the crow flies
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