Velvet

Velvet, velvet and ancient (from the Greek ἑξάμιτος ( hexamitos ), " sechsfädig ") is a tissue with an overlying, incorporated Fadenflor. The historical development of the velvet has always been closely connected with the silk weaving, in particular at the beginning with the medieval Samit, a multi-colored, patterned silk fabric without pile.

Production

In a linen or twill -weave ground fabric another shot or warp system is incorporated, accordingly we speak of shot velvet (also called Velvet) or Warp. This Polkette the Warp or Florschuss / Polschuss the shot velvet forms tufts or loops / loops ( floats ) on the base fabric, which are cut at the end of the manufacturing process and then result on the right side goods the characteristic fibrous web. In Kettsamten a distinction rods Office, which is produced by train or cutting rods, as well as the double office. Caffas were made in the 17th and 18th centuries as rods Office with Zugwebstühlen.

Properties

Velvet differs from suede and plush in the length of the pile. When velvet he is the shortest ( maximum of two to three millimeters long ), therefore velvet feels soft, but of these three, relatively hardest to. Due to the pile velvet has a line direction, which causes the material with the grain or against the grain looks different and feels. The pile direction must therefore be considered in the processing.

Panne velvet (or mirror office) is a glossy, reflective velvet. He receives his appearance by flat pressing or flat ironing ( " pannieren " ) in arbitrary patterns. Is used velvet for ladies wear, skirts, scarves and accessories.

Material

Velvet was historically first made ​​of silk ( Naturseidensamt ), today is velveteen or Chemieseidensamt common.

History

Asia

Figurensamtbrokate be used in Persia from 1587 for apparel fabrics, and for interior design. Velvets of the Ottoman Empire (1413-1566) were exported largely to Europe. The Samtweberei in China evolves from 1644th

Europe

Velvet suddenly became very popular in Europe and later was the main tissue type of the Renaissance. Warp is already detected in Italy in the early 14th century, made in Venice, Florence, Genoa and Milan. 1474 were in Milan 15,000 Samtweber and other employees. During this time he was already used as a reference material, such as for cushions; also for ceremonial robes and wall covers. From the first half of the 17th century tried to break the monopoly of Italy in the Samtherstellung France. Claude Dangon from Lyon in 1605 invented a method that could be großrapportig patterned by the velvet. Flemish weavers led the Samtweberei in England in the second half of the 16th century, the main center was Spitalfields, later Manchester, there with printed cotton velvet. From Manchester derives its called, inter alia, Manchester corduroy.

In the Netherlands and Germany, the velvet industry develops in the first half of the 18th century, eg in Leipzig since 1700, in Chemnitz, Meissen, Zwickau, Berlin, Potsdam and Krefeld to 1721st The Lower Rhine has long been a European center for production complex and precious fabrics of velvet and silk.

The mechanical weaving mill in Linden near Hanover manufactured from the mid-19th century, the famous " Lindener Velvet " ( Velvet).

Flock velvet ( faux velvet)

Flock Official imitated by real velvet flocking by short fiber flakes are bonded to a backing fabric.

Occupations

• Caffamacher
• Silk weavers