Vertainspitze

The Vertainspitze seen from the top of King

The Vertainspitze (Italian: Cima Vertana ) is with 3545 meters the highest mountain in the Laas mountains in the Ortler Alps, a mountain range of the Southern Eastern Alps. It is located in the Italian province of South Tyrol. To the northeast, southeast and northwest tip sends pronounced and walk ridges. Because of its impressive panoramic view in all directions and its easily accessible by cableways he is Solda ( soldiers ) of an often committed during the winter peak. Was first climbed the Vertainspitze on August 28, 1865 by Julius Payer, mountain guide, Johann Pinggera, and an unnamed carrier, who had joined them.

Environment

At the Vertainspitze come from the north, east and south glacier. The most important is in the east of Laas addition ( Vedretta di Lasa ), which reaches up to a height of 3350 meters. To the north lies the Zayferner ( Vedretta di zai), the steep north flank of the tip covered as impressive hanging glacier. A little further away is south of Rosim - addition ( Vedretta di Rosim ). Adjacent peaks are in the course of Nordostgrats, separated by the path transition Angelus Charte ( Passo dell ' Angelo, on 3337 meters altitude ), the 3521 meter high High Angelus (L' Angelo Grande) and is in the course of Südostgrats, separated by the Rosimjoch ( Passo di Rosim, at 3288 meters ), the shield tip ( Punta dello Scudo ), with a height of 3461 meters. To the west the terrain falls to the Vertainwänden ( Crode di Cima Vertana ) down into Zay Valley (Valle di zai), northeast above Solda, which is about four kilometers in a straight line to the west. Laas ( Lasa ) in the Vinschgau (Val Venosta ), the most important town in the area, located about 10 kilometers north-east.

Bases and Ascension

The path of Payer, Pinggera to their change butted unknown carrier, as well as a mountain guide Veit Reinstadler in 1865 resulted in the southwest of Solda Coming in Gampe yards into Rosimtal and from there to Rosimboden to about 2,450 meters high. From the report of Louis Friedman at Edward Judge: After they had here provided with wood, they walked up to the tree line up [ ... ] and stayed there under a rock. The next morning they broke except V. Reinstadler 's, which was left on the Bivouacplatze to 4 U. 30. [ ... ] About the blocks that make up the top part of the mountain, they reached, block to block klimmend to 7 U.45 the summit. The group ascended to the summit via the South-west, today marks only rarely.

Today's normal route, the easiest ascent, leads to the Rosimferner over over the southeast ridge to the summit. The Rosimferner is obtained either from the mountain station of the lift Sulden pulpit to 2348 meters or directly from Solda. The trail, unmarked from reaching the glacier, first to the north edge of the glacier along, later he runs on the glacier directly to its edge. The south-east is achieved by either short to ascend to the glacier below the Rosimjochs and then to Rosimjoch themselves, or by leaving the glacier much earlier and rises over easily recognizable path meshing through rubble until you meet the coming of Rosimjoch way. The way runs south and well below the Gratschneide before ascended the last part to the summit through pathless großblockigen debris in northern direction.

Much more difficult is the ascent of the Zaytalhütte ( Düsseldorf hut Rifugio Serristori, 2721 meters) over the Walterweg.

From the mountain station of the path leads to, according to the literature, a good 4 hours walking over the ridge and the Rosimjoch to the summit of Vertainspitze. 3 to 4 hours are required by the Zaytalhütte from.

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps, Justus Perthes, Gotha 1865 supplement issue 18, page 7, Geographic to Dr. August Petermann's Mittheilungen
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet
190059
de