Kimono

(着 物attract Japanese, German Anziehsache of kiru = and mono = thing ) Kimono is a traditional Japanese kaftanartiges garment, which is held together by a wide belt ( Obi ).

History

Originally, the word kimono was referring to all kinds of garments.

Today's kimono took in the Heian period (794-1192) shape. Since then, remained the basic form of the kimono for both men and women largely unchanged. A T-shaped, straight robe, reaching to the ankles, a collar and wide sleeves. If you horizontally stretches the arms of himself, drop the sleeve from the wrist to about the hip ( in some styles the sleeves can even almost touch the ground). The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right. Is held together by a sash of the kimono -like belt, the obi. He is knotted at the back.

Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, also in the accessories such as the obi.

Today, kimonos are preferably worn on special occasions, and the best of women. Men wear kimonos often at weddings and tea ceremony. Also at certain sports such as kendo, you wear kimonos. There are a large number of Kimonohobbyisten in Japan, where you can take lessons in kimono wearing. Such lessons cover a variety of topics: Choosing of seasonal and event appropriate fabric and patterns, matching underwear and accessories for kimono, seeking out and binding a Obi, etc.

Most Japanese women would not be able to wear a kimono properly without assistance. The typical amenities for women usually consists of twelve or more separate pieces that need to be applied, respectively in a certain way. ( Men's kimonos are much easier, in general, there is a maximum of five parts, as well as socks and sandals. ) There is therefore still a professional kimono applying agents that you can do especially for special events support. Members of the profession must purchase a license. They often work in salons, but come on request in most cases to the customers home.

There are still older women, and probably to a lesser extent also men who wear kimono everyday. Professional sumo wrestlers have to wear a kimono at public appearances outside the ring.

Today, the kimono is rarely worn in public, mainly by Geishas. For Kimono Geta still belong (wooden sandals), jewelry, and in short, that hip-length, kimonos a hakama. In men may still find Netsuke (wood figurines ), which served as a counterweight to bag replacement inro.

Handling and Use

The kimono for women are essentially of one size. They are clamped and folded to be the individual body needs. Today, however, both kimonos for men and women proliferated in different sizes are available. Very large or heavily built man ( for example, sumo wrestlers ) require a specially tailored kimono.

In the past, kimonos were often taken apart completely, so that they could wash them in individual parts. Then the parts were sewn together. Modern washing methods and materials, however, have made ​​this approach largely unnecessary. Sometimes it brings for storage with wide and loose stitches around a folded kimono a basting stitch on. This prevents the formation of wrinkles or creasing and keeps at the same time, the various layers of the kimono together.

There are Kimono styles for different occasions, loose from the very formal to the very back. The Förmlichkeitsgrad a woman's kimono is determined by pattern, fabric and color. Men's kimonos are cut basically the same as a rule and are usually worn in darker colors. The formality is here primarily determined by material and color, as well as by the number or absence of mon, family crest. Silk is the most desirable and the most formal fabric, wool, linen and cotton are more permeable. Nowadays, there are also kimonos made ​​of polyester; these are more casual in general.

Kimonos are made ​​from a single bale of cloth. These bales have fixed dimensions, and the entire fabric is used for the production of kimonos. This is the reason why larger cut kimonos hard to find and are very expensive to customize.

Usually Kimonos are expensive. High quality kimonos are sewn by hand, and the materials used are also often handmade and lavishly decorated. A single woman kimono can easily cost more than € 10,000; complete amenities - kimono, undergarments, obi, belts, socks, sandals and accessories - can cost more than 20,000 €. A single obi may be well worth thousands of euros. In fact, however, most of kimono hobbyists or representatives of traditional arts are far less expensive. For the more adventurous can her kimono or petticoats quite simple tailor itself, since they follow a standard form. Old kimonos can also be fashioned. Cheaper and machine-woven materials can be used instead of the processed manually silk. There are in Japan, finally, a thriving trade in second-hand kimono. Obi for women remain expensive. Even from off-hand they can cost hundreds of euros, and it is difficult for the inexperienced to customize it. Men's obi are a lot cheaper, even those made ​​of silk. This is primarily because these obi are significantly narrower, shorter and considerably simpler than women's obi.

Kimonos are never wasted. Old kimonos are recycled in various ways: It makes them Haoris or children's kimonos; their substance is used to repair a similar kimonos; you make kimono accessories such as handbags from them or covers, bags and casings for various utensils, eg Candy - pliers (used in tea ceremonies ) or ceramic unique. Men's kimonos that are damaged in the lower range may continue to be worn under hakama, so the blemish is not visible.

Woman Kimono

There are several types of kimonos, which are nowadays worn by women. You are selected according to age and occasion. The following are the different types of kimono are listed in descending order by formality.

Note: pattern is used herein to mean ornament, motif used (not in general regular / repeated ). Is only meant if specified explicitly as a regular pattern.

• Kurotomesode (黒 留 袖, literally: black sleeves attached ): black kimono patterned only below the waistline. Kurotomesode is the most formal of kimono for married women. It is often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at the wedding. Usually, on five Kurotomesode Kamon (Family Seal ), on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.
• Furisode kimono Furisode (振 袖, literally Schüttelärmel ): The sleeves are usually 100-110 cm long. The furisode is the most formal kimono for unmarried women. It is a large area patterned. Usually it is worn in " coming of age ceremonies " (eg, the Seijin no hi ) or at weddings and wedding receptions of unmarried relatives.
• Irotomesode (色 留 袖, literally colored sleeves attached ): Irotomesode is a single-color kimono patterned only below the waistline. It is a little less formal than the Kurotomesode. The Irotomesode can show three or five kamon. It is worn only by married women. Usually wear close relatives of the bridal couple the Irotomesode at the wedding.
• Homongi (访问 着, literally: Visit clothes ) are typical patterns that flow over the shoulder, sleeves and seams. Homongi are a little more formal than the similar Tsukesage. Homongi be worn by both married and unmarried women. Usually bear friends of the couple Homongi at the wedding. They are also worn to formal occasions such as receptions or galas.
• Tsukesage (付け 下げ): The Tsukesage has more modest patterns take the less the surface than for in Homongi, mainly below the waist. If worn by both married and unmarried women.
• Iromuji (色 无 地, literally colored unpatterned ): Monochromatic kimono is worn by both married and unmarried women. The dyed silk can be structured ( Rinzu ), but has no different-colored pattern. The Iromuji is worn mainly to tea ceremonies.
• Komon (小 纹, literally: fine pattern ): Is a kimono with a small repeating pattern throughout the fabric of time. To be worn in everyday life. Complemented by an Obi as evening wear. Also back for married and unmarried women.

• Edo Komon (江 戸 小 纹): Is a variety Komon. It is characterized by small dot-like patterns that result in larger images. The Edo Komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai caste in the Edo period. He is as formal as the Iromuji and if he shows a Kamon, also known as "Visit clothes " suitable ( equivalent as Tsukesage or Homongi ).

• Shiromuku, (literally: Shiro = white, and muku = pure): traditional wedding kimono usually made ​​of white silk brocade with woven, auspicious motifs ( Crane, pine, etc.) is made. He is, as is the uchikake, significantly longer than other kimono and has a padded Saumschleppe. Since it is very expensive, it is nowadays very often hired for "only" a few thousand euros, or simply inherited. For Shiromuku the bride wearing a white wedding hood ( Watabōshi or Tsunokakushi ).
• Mofuku (丧服, " mourning " ): A general term for mourning including Western; in terms of Japanese clothing but Mofuku called a funeral Kimono for men and women, which is carried at the funeral of close relatives. The base color is black with no pattern and possibly with Kamon. For Mofuku one wearing a black obi and mostly white tabi.
• Uchikake: Colored wedding kimono bride of heavy, shot- with auspicious symbols and embroidered silk brocade. The most popular color of the uchikake is red; but there are also black or other colors. The ornaments have become a major part of gold and silver. The sleeves towing hang down to the ankles. The uchikake is about 30-40 cm longer than the other kimono, so that the lower hem grinds over the ground. For uchikake the bride wears no headgear, but only rich head-dress. Without help, the bride can not attract the uchikake correctly yet so appropriate move. Until the Edo period (1603-1867) the uchikake the formal kimono of samurai women and nobles was.

Homongi

Iromuji

Irotomesode

Komon

Kurotomesode

Tsukesage

Uchikake

Men's and Women's Yukata

Geisha Kimonos

Since Geisha are not ordinary Japanese housewives, they differ not only from the look on his face, but also for example in the wardrobe.

• The Susohiki is the traditional kimono for the geisha. The sleeve length is reminiscent of a Tomesode. The colors are, depending on the season or occasion, different, from black to purple. Mostly, however, there are subdued colors that are not flashy, since the geisha with her ​​art, less with their appearance, will attract attention. In addition, the Susohiki kimonos are very long on the length while wearing, he would grind during normal walking across the floor. That would be a geisha but never do. Geisha wear with a refined, very elegant handle in front of the upper abdomen her kimono always gathered, so that it never touches the ground unnecessarily. Is only about Photo appointments, as the wedding kimono uchikake and Shiromuku, a Susohiki deposited on the ground, but resumed at the first step. To the Susohiki she wears either silk or Zori, when it rains, the wooden Geta.
• The Hikizuri is the traditional kimono maiko (geisha apprentices). The maiko also differ in appearance from the geishas. While the geisha, who are older, their faces painted less conspicuous and behave maiko wear bright colors, lush Kanzashi hair accessories and high platform shoes, which also act very childish, because the Maiko is to act young, the traditional education with approximately six and a half years begins, but it is possible from the age of 16 years today. Therefore, the Hikizuri is often provided with lush, colorful patterns and the colors are mostly garish green, or blue, as the Maiko is to act childishly, to show the lack of maturity as opposed to trained geisha. Furthermore, the Hikizuri has long sleeves, but they are shorter than the furisode, since as long sleeves would interfere while dancing. In addition, the height, as is the case Susohiki, very long. The Maiko Geisha wearing not like the simple but striking colorful and lush Kanzashi hair accessories to her Hikizuri. It will also consider the typical platform shoes, the Okobo.

The Hikizuri kimono is also often used in Kabuki, to play the role of a young girl. (eg Bando Tamasaburo in " Sagi Musume " )

Men's Kimono

Modern men kimonos differ mainly in fabric and design. Most are of subdued, dark color. Spreads are black and dark blue and green tones, sometimes brown. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern; textured materials are found in rather loose kimono. Less formal kimonos may be of a slightly lighter color, such as in delicate purple, green and blue tones. Some sumo wrestlers wear occasionally quite bright colors such as magenta.

The most formal kimono style for men is simple black with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three- kamon kimono. This is usually combined with white undergarments and accessories.

Almost every kimono equipment can be made formal by hakama and haori wears.

Construction

Woman kimonos have under the left and right armhole at the armpits an opening (身八つ 口, miyatsukuchi / miyatsuguchi ), as well as ever faced further down the sleeves, a further opening (振 八つ 口, furiyatsuguchi or振り 口, furikuchi ). The term yatsuguchi (八つ 口) that comes with these four additional openings, together with those for the arms, neck and lower body a woman kimono " eight openings " has.

Kimono as follows can be cut from a fabric (there are several cut versions, depending on the kimono):

• M: length kimono
• S: Sleeve Length

This causes the following pieces arise:

Accessories and related clothing