Grand Capucin

The Grand Capucin [ gʀɑ kapysɛ ] is a 3838 m high mountain in the French Mont Blanc Range. He is considered the most difficult to besteigende mountain in the Alps ( Normal in the seventh grade). He rises as a giant rock obelisk about 400 meters from the Glacier du Géant and is only from the glacier and the surrounding peaks to be seen. To the north it is covered by the steep Ostwandfluchten of Mont Blanc du Tacul, located just east of Mont Maudit, which leads on to the southwest to the summit of Mont Blanc. To the south lies the Tour Ronde.

The access can be used both in Chamonix ( France) with the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and from Entrèves in Courmayeur ( Italy) carried by cable car to Pointe Helbronner.

The first ascent of the summit took place on July 24, 1924 by E. Augusto, Adolphe and Henri Rey and L. Lanier.

The first ascent of almost 400 meters high, nearly vertical east wall succeeded Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo from 20 to 23 July 1951. Doing so, they overcame difficulties to V , A2. The first free ascent of Bonattiführe was not until 1983 ( difficulties to VIII ).

Since the Bonatti - ascent is the Grand Capucin, despite its hide position, in the constant interest of the climbers. Especially in the 1980s, many new routes have been committed in the steep granite walls. For example, in the south wall Sourire de l' été (1981, VII, A2 ) and O Sole Mio (1984, VII ) or in the east wall Elixir d' Astaroth (1981, VII , A3) and Directe des Capucines (1983, VII ).

2005 Alexander Huber was the Voie Petit commit first redpoint, according to the French scale is the hardest free climbing route in the Mont Blanc massif with climbing difficulties to 8b. 2008 Alexander Huber climbed the Voie des Suisses free solo ascent as descent without using artificial ascent or descent aids.