Mittaghorn

Front lunch Horn, in the background Bietschhorn

The lunch horn is a 3'892 m above sea level. M. high mountain in the Bernese Alps on the border between the Swiss cantons of Bern and Valais, with a west upstream side peak. The only slightly over the ridge jutting main summit is covered with ice and firn, west, north and southeast the horn sends distinctive ridges. The south-east is called Anungrat and leads down to Lötschenlücke, a pass at 3164 meters altitude, on which ( also called solder hut) is the Hollandia. This refuge is an important base for climbing the lunch horn. Was first conquered the mountain from the Loetschental about Lötschenlücke and the south-east of Charles Montadon, A. Ringier and Adolf Rubin on August 19, 1878.

Environment

The lunch Horn is located on the eastern extension of leading up from Lötschenpass ago Petersgrats. The mountain is surrounded on all sides by glaciers, vast glaciers are located in the south with the Anungletscher and to the east by the Great Aletschfirn. Adjacent mountains are in the north- east, separated by the Äbeni Flue - yoke on 3699 meters above sea level, the Äbeni Flue ( 3962 m) and beyond the Gletscherjochs ( 3766 m), the 3983 meter high glacier horn. In the southwest lies, separated by the Mittagjoch ( 3648 m), the large horn with 3754 meters of altitude. To the north, the horn falls over small but steep glacier ( Breitlouwenengletscher, Vordra Schmadrigletscher ) down into the upper Lauterbrunnen valley. Nearest towns are the Blatten lying in approximately 14 line kilometers in the southwestern Loetschental and 6 km north Stechelberg lying in the upper Lauterbrunnen valley.

The normal route leads from the Hollandia (at the Lötschenlücke at 3240 meters above sea level ) in a northerly direction over the Äbeni Flue - firn to the upper glacier basin. Then one turns southwest toward the Anujoch. From the pass, the increase over the last narrow south ridge to the base Gipfel.Als leads for a commission of Mittagshorn is the location of the Lötschenlücke Hollandiahütte by the Swiss Alpine Club at 3214 meters altitude. Another route leads from the hut in a walking time of about 2 ½ hours on the southeast ridge to the summit of the lunch horn, which was also the way the first Steiger. The difficulty is reported in the literature with WS in the SAC - mountain and high- scale tour. Other routes are possible difficulties ZS from the south or the west ridge from the difficulty of Mittagjoch L. By the north wall, however, leads a very serious ice climbing in kombibiertem terrain with slopes up to 80 ° in the difficulty AS ( first celebrated on the second July 1977 by Pietro Zifiropulo and Hannes Stähli ). The walk here is the base Schmadrihütte ( Academic Alpine Club Basel ) ( 2262 m, located west ) from, according to the literature, about 9 to 12 hours.

Sources and maps

• Karl Hausmann: SAC - club guide Bernese Alps. Volume 4: Tschingelhorn to Finstaarhorn. Publisher of the SAC, 1997, ISBN 3-85902-162-1.
• Werner Munter and Margrit: Alpine Club leaders Bernese Alps. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1995, ISBN 3-7633-2415-1.
• Richard Goedeke: 3000 in the northern Alps. Bruckmann, Munich 2004, ISBN 3-7654-3930-4.
• Map of Switzerland 1:25,000, sheet 1249 Finstaarhorn.