The Oberalpstock (Romansh Piz Tgietschen (red mountain ) ) is at an altitude of 3,328 m above sea level. M. the highest mountain of the crystalline Southwest part of the Glarus Alps. In addition to the main summit, there is the South Summit and North summit, each of which has a height of 3295 meters. The mountain sends distinctive ridges, which consist primarily of brittle rock in all four directions. Its name derives from the Oberalp from at its north-western foot.


The mountain rises between the Canton of Uri belonging Maderanertal the north and the Grisons Anterior Rhine Valley near Sedrun in the south. Adjacent Mountains are in the north east of the 3085 meter high chli Upper Alpine, in the southeast of Piz Ault with 3027 meters and in the southwest of Witenalpstock ( 3016 m). Westward the Oberalpstock falls into Etzlital and north into the Maderanertal. The panorama from the summit is one of the most beautiful in the Central Alps.


The Oberalpstock counts geologically to the Aar Massif and is composed of the so-called Central Aaregranit. North below its north side in Maderanertal chloritic serizithaltige gneisses and schist, and quartz porphyries and amphibolites are open.


From Oberalpstock eastward almost to Fuorcia because Cavardiras the Brunnifirn extends to a length of about 2.5 km. In the lower part of the glacier is spaltenarm; the road from Disentis to Cavardirashütte leads over him. In the upper, steeper part of the glacier surface, however, is quite rugged. The normal route to Oberalpstock via the Brunnifirn. Since 1978, the glacier is approximately 120 m become shorter and now ends at about 2600m (formerly it extended also into the Brunnital ). From the summit to the north, the much smaller Staldenfirn extends.

Ascent routes

The path of the first ascent in 1793 led by the eastern Cavardirastal from across the southeast side over the Brunnifirn to the summit. This route is still the normal route, the lightest increase, but becomes increasingly difficult due to the melting of glaciers. Base for an ascent of the Oberalp Stocks on the normal is located on 2649 meters above sea level Cavardirashütte the SAC section Winterthur. Other routes through brittle rock rockfall endangered partly lead, difficult to difficult (S to ZS), on the southwest flank (since 1847), North and West Ridge and the north-western wall, which was first in 1919 by rose.


Oberalpstock and Brunnifirn

Normal and summit of

Brunnifirn with Normal

Ascent to Oberalpstock over the Brunnifirn

Looking SW from the Valais Alps in the background

South Summit and looking S, Lai da Nalps

Looking north towards Germany

Sources and maps

  • Toni Fullin / Andy Banholzer: SAC club leader, Oberalpstock, Windgällen, publisher of the SAC 2010, ISBN 978-3-85902-311-6
  • Map of Switzerland 1:25,000, sheet 1212 Amsteg