Talleitspitze

Talleitspitze from north

The Talleitspitze (formerly also Thalleitspitze ) is a 3,406 meter high mountain in the Ötztal Alps, is located in the cross comb, a side branch of the Schnalskamms. It is located directly south of the vent in Ventertal and forms the northeastern endpoint of the cross- ridge which separates Rofental from Niedertal. Its location dominates the panorama in getting to Vent and is one of the most prominent mountains of Ventertals. In contrast to the south west in the cross peak leads to the Talleitspitze no marked trail, it is therefore made little.

Probably the summit was first climbed in 1811 by Franz Hauslab. A secured ascent took place as part of the military survey in 1853.

Location

The Talleitspitze forms as northeasterly end point of the ridge cross on which unite the current flowing from the south Spiegelache and coming from the southwest Rofenache Vent, a prominent point in the area. The Mountain southwest adjacent during the curving south-eastern ridge only the cross peak with 3455 meters of altitude. Southeast below the Talleitgipfels extends the glacier Eisferner up to a height of about 3300 meters. The eastern flank of the peak falls at a slope of 50 to 55 ° schrofig down to Niedertal, the west side of the Rocky Rofental is clearly pronounced.

Climbing history

Franz Senn writes in 1869 that the Talleitspitze was probably climbed by the then Imperial ensign, later to become Feldzeugmeister Baron Hauslab already in 1811. The first recorded ascent of the peak was in any case in 1853 held as part of the cadastre. In the former protocol, find the entry that you go from Vent on the " Spiegler bridge " and climbs over the slope. In 3 hours, the Thall. achieved in about ¾ hour, half an hour for A climb up the rocky peak. In the period between 27 August and 14 September 1848, the brothers Schlagintweit climbed the peak. A third ascent therefore conducted a land surveyor Hofmann and mountain guides Benedict Klotz from Vent 1861.

Increases

The normal route leads from Vent in 5 hours to the summit. First one rises to the marked path on the Hoernle ( 2406 m above sea level. A. ), a small projection to the northeast of the summit. About a narrower path and steep grassy slopes to reach the wide bottoms north-east of the summit, now it goes over boulders left at a striking plate tower over ( P. 3100), behind right on the northeast ridge. Over this long, very shattered ridge to reach the broad peak ( UIAA I). Alternatively, it is the last part of the ascent via the schrofigen Nordnordostgrat.

In four hours is also a transition from the tip to cross Talleitspitze possible. The rock is brittle and there are difficulties of climbing III. To cope degree.

Sources and maps

  • Walter Klier: Alpine Club leaders Ötztal Alps. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
  • Alpine Club map sheet 30/1, 1:25.000, Ötztal Alps, Gurgl. ISBN 3-928777-38-6
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