Toile

The Toile de Jouy (French for Jouy fabric, named after the original manufacture Jouy -en- Josas in France) is a printed with a characteristic pattern of calico, the pressure initially carried out using engraved copper plates.

History

In the 17th century came to Europe from India by Portuguese sailors introduced brightly printed cotton witness both as outerwear as well as upholstery and decorative fabrics in fashion. These substances designated as Indiennes had the same beautiful colors as the formerly standard silks, but were considerably easier to care for and offered in addition to their relatively low price your added comfort. Add to this the emerging during this period and held until the end of the 18th century penchant for chinoise designs in Europe. The deepening competition with the silk fabrics prompted Louis XIV to the protection of the French textile industry, which was aimed above all in the production of silk goods. This was done by Ludwig banned the import and manufacture of cotton fabrics. As a result, France was cut off from the booming market for cotton fabrics. The place in the wake of the economic liberalization of the French Economic Policy lift this ban in 1759 meant that France both from foreign cotton products and - was flooded by foreign Kattuntextilarbeitern who sought to satisfy the exuberant demand - in the absence of its own employees. The most famous foreigner was the Württemberg Christophe- Philippe Oberkampf, in Jouy -en- Josas, near Paris, a calico took 1760 in operation, once the leader in the French market was.

The Toile de Jouy

The real Toile is determined by both the printing process as well as by its distinctive design. Oberkampf was in France the first to calico printed using engraved copper plates, which - assuming a sufficiently fine surface structure of the substance - made ​​it possible to print very delicate and very sophisticated patterns such as detailed figural or floral displays. The design of the Toile de Jouy has two colors: white fabric on either red - this is the typical color scheme - or blue prints. The motifs are subtle chinoise or pastoral scenes, which are associated with numerous finest vine and flower arrangements. The effect corresponds approximately to that of typical Chinese porcelain, where fine blue (rarely red ) designs are applied to the white base. It should, in addition to using the then modern design themes have been just this effect that the Toile de Jouy gave their resounding success. Although it itself is no more textile industry in Jouy, the Oberkampf 's designs are increasingly hung up and find their way into both the outerwear as well as in the (space ) decoration.