Twill

The twill weave (also short twill or twill ) - in addition to the canvas and the satin weave - one of the three basic types of bonds for woven fabrics. Twill weaves are visible on the oblique ridge. The most popular fabric in twill weave denim, the blue and white denim. Runs the ridge from top left to bottom right, it is called an S- ridge twill; it runs from bottom left to top right, there is a Z- ridge twill, according to the orientation of the central part of the two letters.

In addition, a distinction between the warp and weft body, depending on whether the warp or weft yarns predominate above. The Weber called the upper side in the weaving on the loom machine or the "right goods picture". The well-known denim, for example, is a Kettköper: The chain is blue, the white shot. On the loom denim is woven so that the bluer side is up. In order to protect the mechanics of weaving, denim is now " kettlastigen " usually woven with the side ( in the above case, the product main page / the right goods Picture / blue side ) down. Further characterized a protection against contamination of the actual goods top is achieved in the weaving.

From body tissues, there are equal - and unequal -bonded variants. DC Binding means that the fabric on both sides, technical terminology, looks the same on the left as the right merchandise page.

Depending on the binding and thread count twill used to dense, sleek and durable, but also soft and loose.

There are some variations and derivatives of the twill weave:

• Gleichgratköper: Here, the warp and weft threads evenly distributed over the surface (the number of warp lifts and reductions in the report is the same), which is why they are also called equilateral. Up to the direction of the ridge both fabric sides are equal.
• Mehrgratköper have two different broad ridges, it is available as warp, weft or equilateral twill.
• Breitgratköper have very broad ridges, which consist of at least two warp or weft elevations ( above Ketthebung = warp, weft weft = elevation above). There are equal and scalene Breitgratköper.
• Steilgratköper arises, among other things when using a high warp density. They are characterized by the fact that their ridges, in contrast to most twills not run ( with approximately equal-sized warp and weft density) at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Flachgratköper are so to speak the opposite of Steilgratköpern. They have a high shot density and are therefore also shot twill.
• Spitzgratköper (also zig -zag twill ) is caused by changing the ridge direction. A distinction is made between transverse and Längsspitzgratköper and Spitzkaroköper.
• Herringbone posed by changes in the ridge direction, the binding points are shifted by one or more shots when changing in contrast to Spitzgratköper.
• Cross twill not show the typical ridges. They are formed by halving the rapport in warp or weft direction and simultaneous change of the binding direction ( between Z and S direction, analogous to the Z- and S- twills )

Binding cartridges

Weave for a Mehrgratköper

Weave for a Breitgratköper

Weave for a Steilgratköper

Weave for a Flachgratköper

Weave for a pointed twill

Weave a herringbone

Weave design for a cross twill

• Binding ( Weaving)