Changabang

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The Changabang is a 6,864 m high mountain in a Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand, India. It is located along with other six- meter peaks in the immediate vicinity of the second- highest mountain in India, Nanda Devi. The Changabang is compared with its surroundings not a very high mountain, but it takes its unusual steepness a special role and is due to the great difficulties in his ascension in extreme mountaineers a desired destination. As early as 1937 described him as Frank Smythe "a peak did falls from crest to glacier in a wall did mighthave been sliced ​​in a single cut of a knife".

Ersteigungsgeschichte

Other routes that have been climbed on Changabang include the most difficult thing was ever made ​​in the Himalayan Mountaineering far, such as:

  • The Western Wall route ( VI/A2 ) by Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976, which was carried out in a 25 - day marathon ascent in Bigwallstil and represents a milestone in the history of Himalayan mountaineering.
  • Also in 1976 boarded a Japanese group Naoki Toda the Changabang on the southwest by using fixed ropes.
  • 1978, the south pillar ( VI/A3 ) by Alex McIntyre, John Porter, Wojciech Kurtyka and Krzysztof Żurek was first climbed in eight days. The descent took place in two days on the East Ridge.
  • In 1981 an Italian expedition ascended the Changabang along the southern ridge using fixed ropes.
  • 1982 to 1995, the summit was blocked by the Indian government.
  • Opened in 1997, Andy Cave, Mick Fowler, Steve Sustad and Brendan Murphy a new extreme route through the 1600 meters high north face of the mountain. During the descent Murphy was caught in an avalanche and was killed.
  • 1998, a five-piece American-Russian group rose under Carlos Buhler in 16 days through the central north wall.
  • On 12 October 2006 there was another tragedy when the two Mexican climbers Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra to Changabang climbed a new route and then fell during the descent in a storm and have since been missing.
  • Numerous expeditions fail due to the high difficulty on Changabang, such as the German mountain guide David Göttler that on this mountain twice failed (including in the training expedition of the DAV 2002).
First ascent Dougal Haston Chris Bonington Big wall climbing German Alpine Club
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