Dent d'Hérens

The Swiss side of the Hérens

The Hérens ( 4'171 m above sea level. M. ) is a four-thousand in the Valais Alps. About its peak leads the Italian-Swiss border. The Hérens closes west of the Matterhorn which stands out - what the awareness and the number of visitors in terms - in the shadow of its more famous neighbor. The summit of the Dent d' Hérens is rarely visited.

On the Swiss side of the mountain north of the large Tiefmatt glacier has its origin, its eastward flowing off the tongue is called in its lower part as Zmutt Glacier.

Starting point for the normal route is the Rifugio Aosta ( 2781 m ), accessible from the Lago di Place Moulin (1950 m).

The first ascent was made on August 12, 1863 by Florence Crauford Grove, William Edward Hall, Reginald Somerled Macdonald, Montagu Wood Mass, Melchior Anderegg, Jean -Pierre Cachat and Peter Perren.

Routes

West northwest flank ( normal route of CH from )

• Difficulty: S, III ( French scale: D, as III UIAA level rock climbing. )
• Time: 7 hours
• Starting point: Schönbielhütte ( 2694 m)
• Valley location: Zermatt (1609 m)

West Ridge ( normal route of I off)

• Difficulty: ZS, III ( French scale: AD, with III UIAA level rock climbing. )
• Time: 5 ½ hours
• Starting point: Rifugio Aosta ( 2781 m)
• Valley location: Rifugio Prarayer (2004 m) or the parking lot at Place Moulin dam.

East Ridge

• Difficulty: S, IV ( French scale: D, with IV UIAA level rock climbing)
• Time: 7 hours
• Starting point: Bivouac Giorgio e Renzo Novella ( 3706 m) or Colle Tournanche ( 3479 m)