Jules Jacot-Guillarmod
Jules Jacot- Guillarmod ( born December 24, 1868 in La Chaux -de-Fonds, † June 5, 1925 on a ship in the Gulf of Aden, Yemen ) was a Swiss physician, mountaineer, expedition climber, author and photographer.
Life
Jules Jacot- Guillarmod grew up in La Chaux- de-Fonds and Saint -Blaise NE, the son of the animal painter Jules Guillarmod and Adèle Emma was born, Courvoiser. He studied medicine in Zurich and Lausanne. From 1889 he began mountain climbing and photography. In 1898 doctor operates, in particular in Corsier, from 1912 director of the psychiatric clinic in Prilly. The 1907 closed marriage to Madeleine Bovet sprung three daughters.
As an expedition doctor, he took part in a 1902 led by British Oscar corner stone Karakoram Expedition, along with Aleister Crowley, Guy Knowles and the Austrians Heinrich Pfannl and Viktor Wesseley. When attempting the ascent of K2, he reached with Wesseley the northeast ridge a height of about 6700 m.
He organized in 1905 a separate Himalayan expedition attempting the ascent of Kangchenjunga, with amongst other things Aleister Crowley. Alexis A. Pache from Morges and three Sherpas died in an accident in an avalanche.
Together with the New Burger ethnologist George Montandon 1919 he took part in a mission to the International Red Cross ICRC to supply prisoners of war deported to Siberia and to clarify their repatriation. From the Prince of Monaco, he was awarded the Order of St. Charles.
He was a member of many mountaineers associations, including the Swiss Alpine Club, the Club Alpin Français, of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich, the Groupe de Haute Montagne and president of the Swiss Society of Geography, gave countless lectures and fought against rail projects of the Jungfrau, Matterhorn and Diablerets. His photographic estate is preserved in the Musée de l' Elysée in Lausanne.
On International Geografenkongress in Cairo him King Fuad I of Egypt appointed Grand Officer de l' Ordre du Nil. But he set off on a crossing of Africa, but had to cancel due to illness. He died on a French mail-boat in the Gulf of Aden and was buried in the port city of Aden.
Works (selection)
- Six mois the l' Himalaya, Karakorum le et l' Hindu Kush: voyage et explorations plus aux hautes montagnes du monde. W. Sandoz, Neuchâtel; Fischbacher, Paris 1904.