Monte Zebrù

The Monte Zebrù seen in the center of the eastern Madritschspitze - left the king top, right of the Ortler

The Monte Zebrù is a mountain with two peaks in the Ortler Alps, a mountain range of the Southern Eastern Alps. It lies on the border between South Tyrol and the Italian provinces of Sondrio. The main or north-west summit is 3735 meters high, the southeast summit only 3724 meters. Both points are connected by a 400 meter long, usually about wech ended ice ridge. The main summit sends to the north and south-east of a pronounced ridge that leads over to the Ortler and southeast as ice ridge north to the king top. Monte Zebrù on September 29, 1866 First climbed by the Sulden mountain guide, Johann Pinggera and the Austro-Hungarian alpine researchers and cartographers Julius Payer. The mountain is today from Rifugio Quinto Alpini ( Alpinihütte ) from easily accessible and a popular lookout point.

Geology

The mountains of the Ortler group consisting of limestone and dolomite, which is with a thickness of about 1000 meters on the so-called Veltliner base crystalline, the crystalline basement rocks of the Central Alps. This layer of sediment subject to before about 90 million years ago a slight geological metamorphosis. From the resulting formation of minerals can be close to a temperature of about 400 ° C. This process is only possible under high pressure, so it is assumed that originally lay on the Ortlerkalken the northern Limestone Alps, then under the alpidic orogeny to the north, were transported by thrust faulting at its present location. Already in connection with the Caledonian, 500 million years ago, and the Variscan orogeny 300 million years ago, the base crystallin, which originally consisted of sandy and clayey sediments originated. Here, mica schist, phyllite and Phyllitgneis from the sandy- clayey components was formed quartzites originated from sandstone, amphibolite greenstone and marble from limestone. Your today 's exceptional height and rugged form owe the mountains of the Ortler group the hard carbonate rocks of the Upper Triassic, such as dolomite, from which the peaks are built.

Location

The Monte Zebrù is surrounded by glaciers. From the northwest to the south of the Zebrù - addition ( Vedretta dello Zebrù ) surrounds the mountain and reaches up to the main summit, northeast lies the Solda addition ( Vedretta di Solda ). Adjacent peaks are in the course of Nordgrats, separated by the path transition Hochjoch located at 3527 meters altitude, 3905 meters high the Ortler (Ortles ), is in the course of Südostgrats, separated by the Suldenjoch to 3427 meters, the king tip ( Il Gran Zebrù ) with a height of 3851 meters. To the west lies beyond the Zebrù - Ferner, named after Karl Thurwieser 3652 meters high Thurwieserspitze ( Cima Thurwieser ). The eastern flank of the Zebrù falls down into Suldental. The nearest major town is about five kilometers as the crow Located north-east of South Tyrol Solda. Some 10 kilometers to the south-west, already in the Italian-speaking province of Sondrio, Santa Caterina in Valfurvatal.

Bases and Ascension

The path of Payer and Pinggera in 1866 resulted from the southwest coming in an arc to the northeast on the north-west flank to the summit. This route is still the normal route, which can be committed as a ski tour. As a base for this route, which is to commit as high tour, use with appropriate glacier equipment and experience that serves Alpinihütte to 2878 meters above sea level, east of San Antonio above the Val Zebrù. The walk takes about four hours according to the literature. Very difficult climbing routes in the degrees of difficulty UIAA II to IV lead since 1890, among other things, on the west ridge, through the south-west wall ( Aldo Bonacossa and Carl Prochownik, 1913) and the north walls. A new route was opened in the west wall in 1995.

Sources and maps

• Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th Edition, Berg Publisher Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
• Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet