Palon de la Mare

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The Palón de la Mare, also written in older literature Palon della Mare, is a 3703 meter high mountain in the northern part of the Cevedale Vioz - comb, a south via the Monte Vioz extending from the Suldenspitze to Gavia mountain chain of the southern Ortler Group, a Mountains of the Southern Eastern Alps. The mountain lies on the border between the Italian provinces of Trentino and Sondrio. The firn -covered summit is the fifth highest mountain in the Ortler Alps and acts from the south looking very dominant. To the north and south it sends distinctive ridges that form the ridge line. Due to its easy accessibility from the Rifugio Branca Cesare ( German: Branca hut ) made, he is in the spring for ski tourers a popular destination. He is often exceeded in the context of a transition to Monte Cevedale. Was first climbed the Palón on September 10, 1867 by a native of Bohemia Polar and Alpine explorer Julius Payer and the guides Johann Pinggera from Solda and A. Chiesa in Val di Pejo from Pejo.

Location

The Palón de la Mare is completely surrounded by glaciers. In the northeast the Vedretta Rossa extends right up to the peak point, the south and west, the Ghiacciaio dei Forni extends, the largest glacier of the area and surrounds the foot of the Palón, to the north lies the Vedretta de la Mare. Adjacent peak is during the Nordgrats, separated by the Col de la Mare ( 3442 m) and the Passo Rosole situated on 3502 meters in height, the 3769 meter high Monte Cevedale. In the course of Südostfirngrats is just across the Passo della Rossa Vedretta ( 3405 m) of Monte Vioz. To the east of Palón falls down to the reservoir Lago del Careser whose water level is at 2603 meters altitude. The Trentino village in the Val di Pejo Pejo is located about seven kilometers in a straight line in a southerly direction, the South Tyrol Solda some 12 km to the north.

Bases and Ascension

Julius Payer's way in 1867 resulted from an eastern improvised bivouac above the Malga Mare, a small Alpe in the upper Val de la Mare at about 2600 meters altitude, in a westerly direction to the Vedretta Rossa and the East Ridge ( Catena Rossa ) to the summit. The group, weakened by a sleepless, rainy night, took six hours for the ascent. After Payer had finished his survey work after two and a half hours, it was decided with soggy feet, and [ the ] complete [n ] ignorance with that icy seas which they had to traverse on their way to St. Caterina urgently [ the ] departure. At 3 ½ U. they went from the mountain to the west .... After three and a quarter hours, the goal was achieved.

Today's normal route to the Palón de la Mare leads from the Rifugio Branca Cesare, above Santa Caterina Val del Forno located at 2493 meters above sea level, as high tour with the proper equipment and experience first glacier in southern direction. Then it goes north on over the rich split westerly from Palón glacier on the west side of the summit, according to the literature, 4 to 5 hours. In principle, this route was the descent of the first ascent. Further increases, some climbing routes in the degrees of difficulty to UIAA IV - exist at the ridges on the north west pillar and through the north-west wall.

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps, Justus Perthes, Gotha 1869, Supplement Issue 27 Geography to Dr. August Petermann's Mittheilungen
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet
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