The Nose (El Capitan)

The Nose is about 1000 meters long climbing route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley in California (USA). The route was originally rated VI, 5.10/A3. Later it was climbed "clean " with slips and mobile terminal devices without using pitons, but still rated as " VI 5.11/A3 ". The "VI" corresponds to an alpine multi-day tour in the Yosemite Decimal System. Without the use of artificial aids, so in free climbing, is the difficulty " 5.13b ". The route is still one of the most popular rock climbing routes in the United States. The possible camping places are designated according to high alpine routes, with Camp. After the fourth bivouac site "Camp IV", a striking platform under a large umbrella, the climbing campsite was named in Yosemitetal. About halfway up the route is the " El Cap Tower"; this is a slightly protruding from the wall rock pillar whose summit plateau can be used to bivouac.

History

Warren Harding and his former climbing partner Mark Powell had narrowly beaten by Royal Robbins at first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome. Now they were looking for a comparable outstanding goal.

They decided in July 1957, the route along a striking edge ( The Nose ), who gave the name of the route, to attack. As their trials attracted large crowds, the parking fee at once said the Continue climbing and ordered that such ascents should be made only out of season. On November 12, 1958, the first ascent eventually Harding with Wayne Merry, George Whitmore and Rich Calderwood in 47 days was achieved with several approaches. Royal Robbins succeeded in 1960, the first repetition in just 7 days with Joe Flitchen, Tom Pratt, Chuck Frost.

In 1993, Lynn Hill was accompanied by her partner Brooke Sandahl, the route on El Capitan climb free. A year later they exceeded this power even when they defeated first the entire route in a single day. Lynn Hills original assessment for the Free Nose was 5.13b. The free ascent of the Nose remained for five years after Lynn Hills unrepeated first ascent - despite numerous attempts by some of the best big wall climbers in the world. For this reason, proposed some climbers to raise the level of difficulty for this route at least 5.14a, which included the two free tours of the Nose of the most impressive achievements of climbing history. In 1998, Scott Burke succeeded the second free ascent. On 14 October 2005, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden managed to climb the Nose also free, and on October 16, 2005 Caldwell climbed the route in less than twelve hours.

Yuji Hirayama needed, together with Hans Florine, in 2002, the time of 2:48:55 for the ascent of the wall. An attempt by the Huber brothers, Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber to improve this record is the subject of the award- winning documentary on the limit of the director Pepe Danquart from 2006 /2007. However, the Huber Brothers improved the record only on 4 October 2007 by 15 seconds. Four days later, they improved it to 2:45:45. On 2 July 2008, this record by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama was undercut with 2:43:33 and improved on 12 October 2008 at 2:37:05. This record was set on November 6, 2010 by Sean Leary and Dean Potter with a time of 2 hours, 36 minutes and 45 seconds. On June 17, 2012, the record was again undercut, Alex Honnold and Hans Florine climbed the route in 2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds.

Evidence

37.72857 - 119.636954Koordinaten: 37 ° 44 'N, 119 ° 38 ' W

• Climbing route
• Climbing in Yosemite Valley