Jean Louis

Jean Louis ( born October 5, 1907 in Paris, † April 20, 1997 in Palm Springs, California; actually Jean Louis Berthault ) was a French- American costume designer and fashion designer.

Life and work

Jean Louis studied fashion design in Paris and went in the early 1930s to New York. There he worked for seven years in the successful jewelry and fashion designer Hattie Carnegie.

Then he was 1944-1960 Chief Designer at Columbia Pictures, where he most frequently designed the film 's costumes Columbia's former biggest star Rita Hayworth. With its famous black satin gown that bore Hayworth in the title role of the classic film Gilda, Jean Louis went down in film history. For Hayworth famous Dance of the Seven Veils in the Bible filming Salome he invented in 1953, a kind of skin-colored body tights nylon, which should suggest to the viewer a certain nudity without actually baring Hayworth.

For caused quite a stir his stage clothes for Marlene Dietrich and her one-woman show, " the highest achievement of the theater world since the invention of the trap door " were loud critics of the London press.

In 1961, Jean Louis worked as a freelance designer for film productions.

Very famous is also designed by him skintight dress that Marilyn Monroe wore together with an ermine stole at the birthday celebration of President John F. Kennedy at Madison Square Garden in 1962 and to " Happy Birthday, Mr. President" sang.

Jean Louis was married twice during his life. Six years after the death of his first wife he married in 1993 his former customer, actress Loretta Young.

Further work (selection)

  • Rita Hayworth in Tonight and Every Night (1945 ), Gilda (1946 ), A goddess on earth (1947 ), The Lady from Shanghai ( 1948), Love nights in Seville (1948 ), Affair in Trinidad ( 1952), Salome (1953 ), purgatory (1953), playing with Fire (1957 ), Pal Joey (1957) and They came to Cordura (1959 )
  • Judy Holliday in Born Yesterday The (1950) and The Woman in golden Cadillac (1956 )
  • Gloria Grahame in The Big Heat (1953 )
  • Deborah Kerr in From Here to Eternity (1953 )
  • Judy Garland in A Star Is Born (1954 )
  • Joan Crawford in marriage in chains (1955 )
  • Kim Novak in Picnic (1955), Bell Book and Candle ( 1958) and Pal Joey (1957 )
  • Lana Turner in Imitation of Life (1959 )
  • Doris Day in Pillow Talk (1959 ), What this woman so all drives (1963 ), Send Me No Flowers ( 1964), The devil of Texas (1967 )
  • Marlene Dietrich in The Monte Carlo Story ( 1957) and Judgment at Nuremberg (1961 )
  • Marilyn Monroe Misfits - The Misfits (1961) and Something's Got to Give ( unfinished) (1962 )
  • Shirley MacLaine in The Girl from the Cherry Bar ( 1966)
  • Julie Andrews, Mary Tyler Moore and Carol Channing in Thoroughly Modern Millie (1967 )


Between the years 1950-1967 Jean Louis was thirteen times for the Academy Award nominated for Best Costume Design. In 1957 he won the coveted trophy for the movie costumes from The woman in golden Cadillac (The Solid Gold Cadillac ). He received another Oscar nominations for the following films: