Jerry Moffatt

Jerry Moffatt, actually Jeremy Charles Moffatt ( born March 18, 1963) is an English rock climbers. He was in the 1980s and early 1990s as one of the world's best climbers.

He began in the late 1970s during his school days at St. David 's College in Llandudno with the climbing. He left college in 1980 and moved to Tremadog. Here he was, among other things by the second commission of Ron Fawcett's route Strawberries ( Difficulty: E6 6b engl. ) Make a name in Wales. In no time, his repetition of the world's hardest routes reach among others Genesis ( 5.13a ) in Eldorado Canyon ( Nevada) and Equinox ( 5.13a ) in Joshua Tree in the U.S., Super Imn in Japan and Bidule in France. With Papy on Sight (8a french) he succeeded in Verdontal the commission of the then hardest routes. In 1983 he succeeded in addition to the rapid repetition of the three heaviest paths of Germany also made ​​the first ascent of disgust (IX ( UIAA ) ) and The Face ( X-( UIAA ) ). Both were the hardest routes at that time in Germany, respectively.

The end of 1984 pain began him in the elbow always more to hinder. Nevertheless, he climbed along with Ron Kauk for ABC in free climbing on the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite. Treatments in the U.S. and an operation in Germany in 1986 led to an improvement again. He started training again in November when his brother died in April 1987. This event threw him morally back. He then joined back to the world leaders of climbing. He graduated in 1988, the three hardest climbing routes of France and the United States. In 1987 he competed in the emerging competition climbing. He won several World Cups before 1990 withdrew from the competition climbing.

From the year 2002 he retired from the extreme sport climbing and focused more on surfing and golfing.

He produced several climbing films as Hard Grit, The Real Thing, One Summer and Stone Love. In January 2009 his book Revelations appeared.

Important first ascents and repeats ( selection)

  • First ascent: " Helmut Schmitt " (E6 6b ( British scale) ), Stoney Middleton, United Kingdom
  • First ascent: "Little Plum ", 1st SL (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, United Kingdom
  • First ascent: "Psyche 'n Burn" (E6 6b), Tremadog, Wales.
  • First ascent: "Little Plum", 2.SL (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, United Kingdom
  • First ascent: " Rooster Booster " 2.SL (E6 6c), Raven Tor, UK
  • Repetitions: Second commission of three Ron Fawcett - routes "The Prow " (E7 6c 1982), " Indecent Exposure" (E6 6b) at Raven Tor and "Tequila Mockingbird " (E6 6b), Cheedale. Peak District, United Kingdom
  • Flash ascent of " Super Crack " ( 5.12c ( amerikan. scale), First ascent: Steve desire 1974), Shawangunks; "Psycho Roof" ( 5.12d, First ascent: Jim Collins, 1975); "Genesis" ( 5.12d, First ascent: Jim Collins, 1979), both of Eldorado Canyon; " Equinox " ( 5.12d, First ascent: Tony Yaniro, 1980), Joshua Tree National Park, United States everything.
  • First ascent: "Ulysses" (E6 6b), Stanage, UK
  • First ascent: "Master 's Wall " (E7 6b) Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Wales.
  • First ascent: "Master Class" ( 8a, double scale), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
  • Onsight repeats: " Sautanz " (IX, ( UIAA ), First ascent: Kurt Albert, 1982), " Hot finger " (IX ( UIAA ), First ascent: Wolfgang Güllich, 1982) and " Chasin 'the Trane " (IX, ( UIAA ), First ascent: John Bachar, 1981), Northern Frankenjura, Germany.
  • First ascent: " disgust " (IX ( UIAA ) ), Northern Frankenjura, Germany.
  • First ascent: " Face" ( X, ( UIAA ) ), Altmühltal, Germany.
  • First ascents: " Papy on Sight " (8a ( double ) ), Verdon Gorge, France.
  • " Verbal Abuse " (E7 6c), Raven Tor, UK
  • "Revelations" (8a ( double ) ), Raven Tor, UK
  • " Messiah" (E6 6c), Burbage South, United Kingdom
  • " Isao Ikeda " (7a ( Fb- Fontainebleau - scale) ) Ogawayama, Japan.

"Midnight Lightning" ( V9, First ascent: Ron Kauk, 1978), Yosemite, USA. "Statement of Youth" (8a (French ) First ascent: Ben Moon, 1984), Pen Trwyn, Wales. Flash ascent of " Chimpanzodrome " (7c ( double ), First ascent: Jean Pierre Bouvier, 1981) " Bidule " (8a ( double ), First ascent: Marc le Menestrel, 1984), Saussois, France.

  • Onsight: " Pol Pot " (7c ( double ) ) Verdon Gorge, France.
  • Onsight: " The Phoenix " ( 5.13a, first commission: Ray Jardine, 1977), Yosemite, USA.
  • Flash commission: " Super Imjin " ( 5.12b / c, E6 6b), Ogawayama, Japan
  • Repetitions: "Ghetto Blaster " (X ( UIAA ), First ascent: Wolfgang Güllich, 1986), Frankenjura, Germany.
  • 2nd ascent of " Le Rage de Vivre " (8b ( double ), First ascent: Antoine le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France.
  • 3rd ascent of " Le Minimum" (8b ( double ), First ascent: Marc le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France.
  • Repetitions: " La Spectre of Surmutant " (8b ( double ), First ascent: Jean Baptiste Tribout, 1988), Buoux, France.
  • " Scarface " ( 5.14a, first commission: Scott Franklin, 1988), Smith Rock, United States.
  • " White Wedding" ( 5.14a, first commission: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1988), Smith Rock, United States.
  • "To Bolt Or Not To Be" ( 5.14a, first commission: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1986), Smith Rock, United States.
  • " Stone Love " (X / XI ( UIAA ) ), Frankenjura, Germany.
  • "Superman" (8a ( double ) ), Cressbrook, United Kingdom

Competition Climbing

  • 8th place in Arco ( the first Rock Master )
  • 6th place in Troubat
Joshua-Tree-Nationalpark Verdon (river) Ben Moon (rock climber) Rockmaster Bergverlag Rother Integrated Authority File
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