Quickdraw

A Expressset ( briefly called Exe, often not entirely correct quickdraw ) is a security agent that is used when climbing. It consists of two carabiners that are connected together by a sewn sling, the quickdraw. The most important application is to create a flexible connection between the cable and a fixed point, especially an intermediate backup.

Function

A major advantage of Expressets against an individual carbine is that the movements of the rope are attenuated by the loop and the weight of the carbine and less transferred to the savepoint. This is particularly important in a sensitive set wedge or a tine loop, as they can only be loaded in designated directions and can be levered out by motion.

An advantage that comes with bolts to bear also in modern sport climbing, is the shortening of the rope runs. The cable also has a larger distance to the wall, making it experiences less friction, the climber thus feels less cable and can tighten the rope easier.

Compared to a combination of fixed point and carbine sling by the Expressset has the advantage of quick and easy application.

Construction

Expressets usually consist of two aluminum carabiners and snap a sling made ​​of polyamide or similar material, which connects the two carbines. The length of the connecting loop is usually at least 10 cm, but also significantly longer copies will be offered.

Modern Express sets usually have a larger and a smaller opening. The openings of the carabiner facing in the same or in opposite directions. The larger opening is used for the straight " uphill " carabiner while the smaller opening of the curved gate is used. Often the curved carbine is additionally fixed with a rubber sleeve, so as shackling is facilitated, whereas the larger opening for the mountain -side carabiner ensures the flexibility of the Express sets. In addition, the fixing of the karabiner has a function in the event of a crash to prevent a dangerous transverse loading of the carabiner. Some experts estimate that advantage one as so important that they also advise to quickdraws with rubber attachment to the rock side carbine.

Security

In climbing a breaking strength for the quickdraw and a breaking strength of 22 kN for the carabiner has been proven. Valid for quickdraws standard is 566 It prescribes that the loops of the Express Sets least 22 kN breaking strength have ( at standardized test execution ) and that the seams have a color different from the strip material EN.

The tensile strength of the loops of Express sets decreases with age, but this was in a study, no general, significant correlation between age and the tensile strength can be found. Also, the material (polyamide versus blend) has no significant effect on the tensile strength of older loops. However, a clear correlation between the appearance and the tensile strength showed. Dilapidated, frayed or even scribed Express Adige Lingen hold less. Overall, throughout the study comes to the conclusion that the found, age-related decrease in tensile strength with safety regulations is still acceptable up to 9 kN.

Expressets should be replaced with weekly or more frequent use approximately every five years and at less frequent use every seven to ten years. Apart from age, the loops of the Expressets should be replaced,

• If the seams are heavily worn,
• If the noose had contact with acids, particularly sulfuric acid (eg from batteries )
• When the loop is touched,
• Or if the loop does not have a CE mark.

Application

A climber lead climbing performs the necessary number of quickdraws to the gear loops of his climbing harness with it. The carbine is a Expressets at each intermediate fuse hooked to the straight gate into the hook (or other fixed points ) and led the rope through the carabiner with the bent snapper. This should be maintained constantly so, since sharp hooks can leave the metal carabiner grooves. This damage does not affect the strength of the carabiner, but would damage any running through him rope. The cable is always carried out from the wall outwardly, through the carabiner, because otherwise accidental unhooking of the cable is possible. More of the sling should be so hooked that the opening of the latch counter has with the rope of climbing direction, otherwise unmount is also conceivable in this case.

Often people find varying lengths using quickdraws. Longer loops lead to a large extension of the fall height but provide the opportunity to ensure even in unfavorable placed belays a straight cable path, which in alpine terrain is often necessary in particular.

While they are usually removed after climbing, it is designed for difficult routes also common to express sets a longer time to leave (also for use by other climbers ) (Pink Point). In indoor climbing quickdraws are usually permanently attached to the wall.

Away from their usual purpose Expressets also be used for other purposes. For example, they are suitable for the construction of a Garda loop, but can also be found around the Standplatzbau use.

History

The invention of the Express set in the modern sense is the American climber Jim Erickson attributed. For a long time it was customary to mount either single or carabiner to use tape loops that were available only in the length of 8 feet. Erickson recognized already in the 1960s, the benefits of a short connection of two carabiners in modern sport climbing and improvised quickdraws used. In January 1972, he finally made ​​at four prefabricated 9 inches long Expressets, which began to prevail soon. However, there are also reports of the use of similar structures in Yosemite Valley by other climbers already around 1970.