Textile

Textiles ( to Latin textilis, woven ',' cast ',' woven ',' together ' in the sense of building and Visual Design ) denotes

• Textile fibers
• Made therefrom linear textile structures such as yarns and threads, the sheet-like textile structures such as woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics, braids, stitch-bonded fabrics, non-woven fabrics and felts and spatial textile structure (body structure ), such as textile hoses, stockings or textile semi-finished reinforced plastic components.
• Those finished products that are marketed using the aforementioned products by converting, opening and / or other operations in sale condition suitable for passing on to the processors, trade and the consumer.

With the additional use of non-textile raw materials in the product is critical for attribution to the textiles, the textile overall character remains, so exercise the foreign materials only an additional function.

Textiles in various forms are among the oldest artifacts that have been made since the early days of mankind. To date, they are among one of the few product groups that are used in all areas of human life application. For these reasons, have for millennia extensive areas that deal with textiles, emerged. These include:

• The textile technology with its special manufacturing process, from the preparation of the fibers after their extraction in agriculture and their production in the chemical fiber industry on the production of textile semi - finished and finished products to packaging of finished textile products
• Textile materials and Silo,
• The textile testing and standards, product
• The application techniques in the various applications and
• Whose artistic, arts and crafts, cultural, cultural-historical and ethnographic aspects.

Terminology

Although based on ancient Latin roots of the term appears in the German textile technology textbooks and in the dictionaries by the end of the 19th century not. Beginning of the 20th century we find the term textile fabrics, which are distinguished in fabrics made of fibers such as felts and Watten and from threads such as netting, cloth, nets and knitted fabrics.

A precise date for the introduction of the concept of textiles in the German language is not known; it can be assumed based on literature searches of them, however, that this happened in the first decades of the 20th century and that this collective term from 1950 years in the literature (for example ) and in practice established what ultimately to the introduction of DIN 60 000: Textiles - Basic concepts introduced.

Synonym for textiles is also the term substance for those textiles used that as a flat textile structures (such as non-woven fabric, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, woven or stitch-bonded fabrics ) as the tracks and rolled come directly in the trade or in the clothing industry for further processing to clothing, home and household textiles, technical textiles are supplied.

Since hundreds of years, the term cloth overarching importance for tissue mainly of wool yarns, but also from linen and cotton yarns. As one cloth but also called fully fashioned flat textile structures from a variety of fiber types, which cover some or envelop such as table, hand, bed, wiping, headscarf. Also found in particular in historical representations of the concept stuff as a collective term.

A professional scientific definition: " Textiles as morphologically identifiable, designed fabric from spun-glass, length limited fibers and drawn (or) continuous fibers, which have the spinnability as a property " where there rejected the allocation of fibers to the textiles and hence the designation textile fibers is, as the same fibers may also be used for the production of paper. This view, however, has hardly enforced in practice.

Components of textile products

Main components of all textile products are textile fibers, ie fibers, which can be processed in textile manufacturing processes, in particular, to spin. These are linear structures, namely the ratio of length to diameter which is substantially greater than 1, with a sufficient length as well as bendability and conformability as a prerequisite for its processability. The mold according to the fibers in textile fibers ( fibers of limited length ) and filaments ( continuous fibers ) can be distinguished. The textile fibers include flock fibers, although they are not spinnable, as well as, for example, rubber fibers, metal fibers or spun paper, when they are processed textile. Textile fibers can be: natural fibers (mineral such as asbestos fibers and rock wool; vegetable such as cotton fiber, flax fiber, hemp fiber or animal such as wool, silk ) and man-made fibers from natural polymers ( regenerated cellulose-based such as rayon, lyocell, or rubber), synthetic polymers (such as polyacrylonitrile, polypropylene, polyester, polyamide or polyurethane ), and inorganic materials ( such as glass and metal). To the other constituents, which often occupy only a very small proportion of the total mass, but the appearance and performance characteristics of particular importance include the dyes and finishing agents, such as lubricants and sizing agents for influencing the fiber - and Garnverarbeitbarkeit, Knitterarmmittel, water repellents and hydrophilic agents, flame retardants, coating agents and binders, etc. The trade is bound to be for textiles that consist of at least 80% of textile fibers and made ​​available to the final consumer is available, the fiber composition in accordance with Regulation No 1007/ 2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 27 September 2011 that from 8 May 2012, the textile Labelling Act has replaced, specify. Such exceptions are regulated there as well. Importance for the allowable components of textiles has also evaluated the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, the textiles on their human ecological safety, the pollutant content and the use fastness properties. For the assessment of textiles in terms of health compatibility, but also the potential danger in case of fire or in waste disposal often an MSDS is required, which must identify the major components. Textile finished products are also provided for many areas with a care label.

Manufacturing process

Manufacturing technology, the production of textile semi -finished and finished products for the most part by joining. This is done as before by manual labor and craft techniques, but mainly by industrial manufacturing processes. These are simple objects of labor, such as the spinning wheel, knitting or crochet hook and hand looms, but mostly textile machinery (such as spinning, weaving and knitting machines, but also aggregates of extrusion and drying technology, inter alia, m. Employed.

• In spinning staple fibers are twisted together over several preparatory processing steps into a yarn with a desired yarn count, with the friction of the fibers and their flexibility can be utilized. If simple yarn of staple fibers or fiber filaments are twisted together, called this joining method yarns.
• When weaving the threads of two thread systems ( warp and weft), which are exactly or approximately perpendicular to each other, crossbred for a particular order ( weave ) to a tissue. The connection of the threads is carried out mainly by a friction fit at the intersections.
• In joining processes such as the action, the warp knitting, knitting, knitting, needle and bandages, stitches from hanging together loops that incorporate some cases also with straight thread systems, combined to form a sheet. There arise knits, warp knit, knitted fabrics and stitch-bonded fabrics as fabrics. In particular, knitted or crocheted fabrics are stretchable because of their more positive connection.
• Braiding, lace-making and more nodes are joining process in which fabric formed from threads.
• The felts, which is part of one of the oldest method for the production of textile fabrics, the fibers, the fibers are felted filzfähige of webs ( in particular wool and hair) contain entangled with each other due to mechanical, thermal and chemical effects. There arise Walkfilze.
• One of the most diverse manufacturing method for textile fabrics, the joining of the fibers and, if necessary strength agents to nonwoven fabrics. First, the fleece insert is done from textile fibers or extruded directly from continuous filament fibers, sometimes also with admixture of other fibrous components such as cellulose, wherein the fibers are held together by their own liability, but also form-fitting. The fibers may be arranged in the web having a preferred orientation, but also in random orientation. The fibers of the fabrics are, inter alia, bound by needling with barbed needles, stitch formation, intermingling means of water jets, the action of heat and / or pressure, ultrasound, or by adhesive and cohesive bonding using binders for nonwoven fabrics.

Most of the damages caused by the different joining methods textile raw products (semi-finished ) are still subjected to various finishing processes in order to obtain a special appearance (eg, by dyeing, printing) or special use properties (eg, stain-resistant, wrinkle poverty, flame retardants ). The manufacture of textile end products such as clothing, home textiles, and technical textiles from textile fabrics is done for the most part by assembly techniques, although the finished products can be produced entirely in one operation (eg pantyhose). For finished products which are to be put together from different parts, the parts are cut to the desired shape of the submitted fabrics and subsequently joined together by sewing, welding or gluing. For other finished goods are only cutting to a specific width and length to be subsequently rolled, for example, and delivered in rolls such as filter wheels. Also, by punching or cutting techniques finished products can be made from textile fabrics, such as tapes, felt parts, medical devices, etc.

Characteristics and test methods

Due to the manifold combinations of chemically and physically different fiber materials, the shape features of the existing of the fibers fibers and yarns and the arrangement of these structural elements and their compounds in the structure of the textile products and the additional variations by appropriate finishing process results in a difficult to be named, but certainly reaching into the hundreds of thousands of the number -specific textile materials with very specific properties. Due to the high number of possible combinations of a variety of property profiles in accordance with the requirements of the application areas of textiles can be achieved. Alone for the nonwovens is using about 120 000 possible combinations and thus material variants was called. Mechanical properties such as strength and elongation at static and dynamic stress play as well as with other materials for textiles a role. For this purpose, but they are also very textile- specific properties such as tendency to crease or scuff resistance. But particular aesthetic and clothing physiological properties are very specific to textile materials and finished textile products. A special feature of textile yarn and fabrics compared to structures made of lightweight materials such as metals and ceramics is their high porosity, which determines many working properties and performance characteristics substantially. For these very specific properties that are used for the characterization of textiles, mostly very specific tests are developed.

Areas of application

Textiles are used varied. By far the most well-known application is the clothing. In addition, they are used in the household in the form of carpets, in upholstered furniture, curtains, towels, bed linen, as tablecloth or as a cleaner and cleaning cloths. In technology and industry can be found from the beginning about the Segelei and the lifting technique (of support networks to lifting slings ), cordage and lashing straps over tents, air bags, filters, grids and geotextiles, and also the architecture in roof constructions and rope net structures. In the medical and hygiene textiles with diapers, handkerchiefs, hospital or surgical textiles and bandages are used. Recently fabrics are used in combination with resin as a fiber- reinforced plastic in sailing boats and aircraft.

Become textiles for industrial purposes and for other properties used as their appearance, one usually speaks of technical textiles.

Prehistoric textile evidence

Jägerische cultures

The oldest textile fibers demonstrably used by people are about 30,000 years old and stem from the Dzudzuana Cave in the Caucasus (Georgia), on the other hand Dolni Věstonie and Pavlov in Moravia. In the Dzudzuana Cave is flax fibers ( already colored in part ), at the two Gravettian find sites to Moravia nettle fibers. Addition to the so-called direct dry detecting Venusfigurinen of Gravettiens can give a variety of information on clothes, as it is indicated on the surfaces of the figures. There are items of clothing, such as the Rock at the Venus of Lespugue, often ornamented textile belt, similar to the figures of Kostenki in Russia.

Slightly younger ( 19,000 years old ) are the textile evidence of Ohalo II at the Sea of ​​Galilee.

AMS dating of textile finds from the Guitarrero cave in the Andean highlands of Peru showed in 2011 a surprisingly high age of about 11,000 BP.

Textiles Neolithic cultures

The Neolithic Age was associated with the domestication of plants and animals and the harnessing of their properties. Textile remnants of Central Europe, however, until the time of the Late Neolithic remains to us only from plant fibers ( flax or flax fibers, hemp, Gehölzbast ). The early as the 6th millennium BC in Southeast Europe ( Sesklo culture) and the Middle East occurring spindle whorls made ​​of baked clay occupy the spiders. Earthen whorls there are a few in the Central European Linear Pottery. However, it is unclear whether these have served exclusively for the processing of plant fibers or already for the spinning of wool or animal hair.

The existence of weaving techniques can be indirectly demonstrated already for the 7th millennium BC, as webmusterartige geometric wall paintings of Çatalhöyük in Turkey Tell strongly reminiscent of woven kilims. From a funeral in House VI 1 of Çatalhöyük there is a charred Weberest, the BC dated to around 6000 and is now preserved in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. Another early fabric find from this region is known from Cayönü. Impressions of tissues in pottery from the 7th millennium BC are from before Jarmo in northern Iraq. According to an unconfirmed release of Çatalhöyük Dig conductor James Mellaart in 1966 the oldest remains were found in layer VI of felt of the mound of Çatalhöyük. Also from about 6000 BC usual ceramic painting, which differ from Anatolia through Southeast Europe ( Sesklo, Karanowo culture Vinča culture ) to Central Europe ( Pottery ) spread, usually has geometric patterns, which are typical for weaving. Since no clay loom weights were found in references to these cultures, the use of small, portable loom is assumed. The oldest illustration of a horizontal weaving frame is obtained as Ritz drawing on the inside of a ceramic bowl from the find site of Badari (Egypt) and is dated to about 4400 BC. In the weaving equipment shown here is a simple peg loom. The shell ( Badari, grave 3802 ) shall be issued together with about the same old Leinresten in London's Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology.

Only in the late Neolithic period (from about 3500 BC) can - with clay loom weights - Central European archaeological evidence of the weight of the loom are provided. Here, however, is still unclear whether addition of vegetable fibers already wool was woven. First indications of the wool processing are available in Central Europe in late or late Neolithic cultures ( around 3000 BC ), for example in the East Bavarian Cham Culture. Evidence for the selective attitude of wool sheep has altered the demographics late Neolithic sheep, since an increase of older sheep is recorded. Among the rare direct evidence include wool hairs in the French lake settlement Clairvaux- les -Lacs ( early 3rd millennium BC ) and Wollreste at a late Neolithic flint dagger from Wiepenkathen, a district of Stade.

Younger history

The evidence of textiles and its supporting manner multiply abruptly in the Bronze and Iron Ages. Tree coffin finds from the Nordic Bronze Age, for example, the girl from Egtved, provided good preservation conditions for textiles. From Denmark several Bronze Age woolens were analyzed, which were obtained from brown and white Soayschafen. In prehistoric salt mine in Hallstatt many textile remnants have been preserved due to the salty air. At least since the early Hallstatt period is known, the technique of Brettchenwebens.

Excellent textile conservation, there are at mummies from the Tarim Basin in western China, which must be dated between 1800-400 BC. The " Cherchen Man", a Tarim mummy from the 12th century BC, wearing knee socks made ​​of felt, which were red, yellow and blue striped.

New research methods allow the positioning of the used wool sheep, and thus conclusions on the manufacture of woolen textiles and optionally their trade. Thus the origin of the wool of Iron Age textile finds from Denmark could be determined by means of strontium isotope analysis.

Advantageous conditions for the preservation of prehistoric textile remains also exist when they are encrusted carbonized or for example by contact with copper artifacts with copper-based minerals. Since copper inhibits the growth of bacteria and thus biodegradation of Native American Hopewell culture could be studied by this circumstance, for example, textile remnants.