Eiskögele

Hoher Kasten, Eiskögele and snow angle head, seen from the Kals Tauern house.

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The Eiskögele is a 3423 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Glockner Group in the Western Tauern main ridge, a mountain range in the Austrian Central Alps. It lies on the border between the Austrian provinces of Salzburg, Carinthia and East Tyrol and thus represents a Dreiländerpunkt dar. The mountain has the shape of an ice-covered horn with a massive north wall, a pronounced northeast ridge to the west and a sharp Firnschneide. From the base Oberwalderhütte from it is slightly over the glacier to reach Pasterzeboden. Was first climbed the mountain on July 30, 1872 the tourists as Lergetporer from Schwaz and the guides Michel Groder and Joseph Kerer. The first movement on the mountain undertook in August 1891 Ludwig Kohn of Vienna within the framework of exceeding the snow angle head.

Location

The Eiskögele lies at the point where the western end of the Glockner ridge abuts the Tauern main ridge. In the north, east and south it is surrounded by glaciers. To the north is the Ödenwinklkees, which extends to the foot of the Eiskögele north wall, to the east the snow angle extends to the accumulation zone of the Pasterze, Austria's largest glacier, up to an altitude of 3420 meters to just below the summit. To the south lies the Laperwitzkees, which reaches up to the summit. Adjacent Mountains are in the course of Nordostgrats, separated by the Lower Ödenwinkel Charter on 3160 meters above sea level, the 3261 meter high Ödenwinkel chart head and in the further course of the Johannisberg 3453 meters. During the westward Ödenwinkel wall with their strong jagged towers and the High cutting is the high box. The western edge of the Eiskögeles falls back down into the valley villages, the northern extension of the Kals valley. The nearest major settlements are the 11 kilometers in a straight line south to East Tyrol Ködnitz in Kals am Großglockner, and about 20 km in the north is in the Pinzgau Salzburgische Kaprun.

Bases and tours

It is likely that the first climbers had conquered another mountain of 1872 on their tour. Due to poor visibility and the former, yet inaccurate Alpine Club card, they thought they were on the 3189 meter high box, which lies less than a kilometer to the west. The Eiskögele can only be achieved under a high tour with suitable equipment and glacier experience. Since 1884, this recognized as such normal route leads from the Oberwalderhütte, located at 2972 meters above sea level, from the northwest, then west across the crevassed Pasterze to the Upper Pasterzen floor and then to the Lower Ödenwinkel Charter. From there you can reach via the northeast ridge. The route requires climbing skills in difficulty UIAA II at a Eisneigung of 40 °. The difference in height between saddle and the summit is 256 meters in altitude, and is the walking time, according to the literature, 3 ½ hours from the hut. Due to the almost 500 meter high Eiskögele North Face lead since the mid-1920s also very challenging climbing routes, and partly combined (rock / ice), with key points in the UIAA grade V and up to 60 ° inclined snowfields.

Sources and maps

• Willi End: Alpine Club leaders Glocknergruppe, Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
• Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Band, publisher of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
• Alpine Club map 1:25,000, sheet 40, Glocknergruppe