Gasherbrum II

High camp at G II in 5900 m height. Links of G III, apparently in the fall line of the southwest ridge. In the middle of the summit of the G II, along with the G East

High Tour ( glaciated )

Pd5

With 8034 m is the Gasherbrum II ( K4 earlier; Chinese加舒尔布鲁 木 山, Pinyin Jiāshū'ěrbùlǔmù Shān ) is the thirteenth highest mountain in the world. He is part of the Gasherbrum group in the Karakorum, which lies southeast of the K2 in the border region of the People's Republic of China and Pakistan.

Geography

Gasherbrum II is the main peak of the so-called actual Gasherbrum group. It extends from west to east direction and forms an approximately 7600 m high ridge on which sits in the middle of the summit pyramid of Gasherbrum II. In the West, sitting on this mountain ridge, the summit pyramid of Gasherbrum III, considered the secondary summit of Gasherbrum II. East of the G-II summit of Gasherbrum II follows the East, which has a rounded top shape. The side peak G III and G East are sometimes referred to as a relatively independent main summit. The east ridge descends from the Gasherbrum La, an approximately 6500 m high pass that connects the Gasherbrum II with the North Face of Gasherbrum I ( Hidden Peak ). In the West, followed by the G III of Gasherbrum IV, an independent mountain, which also belongs to the solid part of the actual Gasherbrum group.

Climbing history

The first ascent was made on July 7, 1956 by three participants of an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. Besides Moravec Josef Larch and Hans himself Willenpart came to the summit. So they opened today's normal route on the southwest. Below the summit pyramid a crossing occurs to the east, on the south-east ridge of the pyramid, the summit is reached.

In the summer of 1983, the two poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka climbed Gasherbrum II on the east ridge. For acclimatization, they climbed up to the first hitherto unclimbed Gasherbrum East, where they arrived on 24 June. After a bivouac on the summit they climbed to the base camp to climb the G II a few days later. On the way to the main summit ( July 1) they exceeded the Gasherbrum East. By descended on the normal route to the base camp, they succeeded the first traverse of Gasherbrum II, The ascent was the alpine style.

In 1984 the mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander succeeded in exceeding the Gasherbrum II and then of Hidden Peak, also in alpine style. This overrun is still regarded as one of the most outstanding achievements in high-altitude mountaineering. The director Werner Herzog accompanied Messner and chamber lander with a camera crew to the base camp and documented the excess in the film Gasherbrum - the shining mountain. In 1996, the French mountaineer Jean -Christophe Lafaille the double ascent of both peaks without descent to base camp alone. On Gasherbrum II, he chose to climb and descend the normal route, as he had previously climbed the GI on a new route.

On 7 July 2006 a Swiss expedition succeeded the first ascent of the North Face of Gasherbrum II climber Ueli Steck, Hans Mitterer and Cedric Hählen reached the 7758 m high east summit. Due to the danger of avalanches, they decided to dispense with the further descent and ascent over the ridge to the main summit.

Exactly 50 years after the first ascent Moravec planned the two young Munich Extremskibergsteiger Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag, advised by Chamber Lander, her record attempt in the ascent of Gasherbrum II and ski back down without deposits or support in the high camps. On August 3, 2006, it began under the direction of the mountain guide Luis Stitzinger from the base camp at 5900 m altitude with the rise. At the top of the climb was made difficult by snow. The subsequent departure to the summit starting point was at large avalanche danger, without taking off the skis and without abseiling. The team needed nearly 17 hours for the entire tour in alpine style.

2007 overcame the Italians Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi and Michele Compagnoni first complete ascent of the north wall and reached the summit on July 20. They celebrated the north-east pillar in the direct peak fall line. During a Akklimatisierungsbesteigung the lower part of the wall were secured with fixed ropes and established an interim storage facility at 6000 m. The actual ascent began on July 18 from the base camp and was conducted from the intermediate storage in alpine style. While Bernasconi and Unterkirchner fully climbed the pillars, crossed Michele Compagnoni, nephew of the K2 first ascent Achille Compagnoni, at 7850 m to the southwest, to travel the last 200 meters of altitude on the normal route. By 20 clock local time at the summit made ​​some security for a descent via the normal route on the south side.

On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II In order for the Gasherbrum II is the first of the four eight-thousanders in the Karakoram and the five Pakistani eight-thousanders, which was climbed in winter.