Lhotse
Lhotse south face from Chukhung Ri
The Lhotse ( in China officially Lhozê; Tibetan in Wylie transliteration lho rtse ;洛子峰Chinese, Pinyin Luòzǐ Feng ) is a mountain in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China and neighboring mountain of Mount Everest. With this it is connected by the South Col 7986 m high. With a height of 8516 m, it is the fourth highest mountain in the world. The Tibetan name Lhotse means " southern " and indicates the affiliation to the Everest massif. From Lhotse and Lhotse Shar fall southward over 3000 m high rock walls from. These include the enormous difference in altitude and the extreme sea level to climbing the most technically difficult and dangerous walls of the earth.
Climbing history
The first ascent was on May 18, 1956 a Swiss expedition. Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss were the first of the eleven-member team that reached the summit under the direction of Albert Eggler. The expedition on behalf of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research had set up their base camp already on 7 April in 5370 m altitude on the Khumbu Glacier. Camp IV was established on 1 May at 6800 m altitude. From around 1000 meters higher in Camp VI from scored the first so-called summit of Lhotse. These bearings chain Taking advantage while reaching four members of the expedition to the summit of the neighboring Mount Everest. Ernst Schmied and Marmet Jürg stood on May 23, Hans Ruedi von Gunten and Dölf Travels on May 24, 1956, the highest mountain in the world, which they managed the second ascent of the mountain.
1977 Michael Dacher reached the first man without additional oxygen to the summit.
On 16 October 1986, Reinhold Messner stood together with Hans Kammerlander on the summit of Lhotse. Messner was able to reach the summit before the onset of winter and already 20 days after the Makalu. This Reinhold Messner was the first man who stood on all 14 eight -thousanders.
Also, to the first ascent of Lhotse south face is shrouded in many legends. Jerzy Kukuczka crashed at an altitude of 8200 m deadly October 24, 1989. 1989 also failed Reinhold Messner as head of an international expedition to the south wall of the mountain. April 24, 1990 Tomo Česen want to have a clean ascent made it to the summit, but can not provide conclusive evidence. However, his plans go years of preparation and months of routes and weather studies ahead on the wall. In addition, the day of his ascent to reach the summit and descend via the same route covered, proven with a full moon phase together, which was crucial, because Česen could only climb at night reasonably safe and alone with stone and icefall. A Russian expedition was certainly in the same year verifiable successful, albeit with the aid of bottled oxygen.
Summit of Lhotse
Lhotse Middle
The Lhotse Middle is only a secondary summit of Lhotse, which does not appear despite an altitude of 8410 m in the classical list of the 14 eight-thousanders. This, above all, its location on an extremely steep and rugged ridge have meant that he was the last of a total of only about 30 peaks of more than 8000 m remained as an unclimbed until 2001.
It is located between the main peak and the Lhotse Shar and is therefore also referred to as an intermediate peak. He is the higher and more westerly of the two interim summit of Lhotse. The second intermediate peak is also referred to as middleware, but mostly with the addition of the East for the more easterly location. The amount is given partly different in the sources, with 8400 m, but with only 8372 m.
Lhotse Shar
The Lhotse Shar is a 8382 m high secondary summit of Lhotse. It is located at the eastern end of the extremely steep and craggy ridge and is therefore also called the East Summit. He is officially listed as secondary summit of Lhotse. Seen from the dominance and the saddle height -wise he just missed the set for the Himalayan borders in order to apply as a separate peak.