Shispare
The Shispare over the Passu Glacier
Shispare (center back), Bojohagur Duanasir (center front), Ultar Sar ( right front) bdep2
Pd5
The 7611 meter high Shispare is after mehrgipfligen Batura Sar, the second highest mountain in the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost part of the Karakoram range in the autonomous region of Gilgit- Baltistan, the former Pakistani High North. Other names of this mountain are Shispare Sar and Sar Shisparé.
Location
The Shispare located east of Batura Sar. It towers above the west side of the Hunza River, which runs in a long loop from the South- side to the north-west side of the Batura Muztagh. Southeast of the Shispare are Ultar Sar and Bojohagur Duanasir.
Properties
The Shispare would dwarf the surrounding terrain unusually far. For example, the nearby town of Karimabad in the Hunza valley is situated at 2,060 m. The summit of the mountain is 13 km as the crow flies, but about 5,550 m higher. Because of its location on the edge of the Batura Muztagh are several large waterfalls in its immediate vicinity. The Shispare also has a strikingly large and steep northeast flank, which slopes down to the Passu Glacier back.
History
The Batura Muztagh in mountaineering began later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shispare was the first major summits of the mountains, which were in 1974, successfully climbed by the Polish- German Academic expedition led by Janusz Kurczabs. The ascent took 35 days to complete. While the preparations for a second rope team and a renewed rise ran the expedition participants Heinz Borchers was killed by an avalanche. The route of the first group followed the Passu Glacier to the east ridge, which lies on the border of Ghulkin glacier. ( It should be noted that this ridge leads first to the southeast from the summit, but then turns to the northeast and finally runs to the east. Therefore it is but appears in the sources partly as Southeast ridge as Northeast ridge. ) Difficulties of the rope team came across a long Eiskamm, the overcoming of which require a 1500 m long fixed rope.
The next attempt was made in 1989 was composed by a Japanese expedition consisting of members of Ryukoku University Alpine Club, and was led by Masato Okamoto. The group was almost two months on the mountain, but could not reach the top in several experiments; its highest point was about 7200 m.
1994 reached a guided by Yukiteru Masui Japanese group from Komono Alpine Club, as being the last group to the summit. They reached the base camp on June 18 and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route that was chosen during the first ascent and climbed in a similar style with a similar amount of Fixseiles. The Himalayan Index tables list no further ascent attempt.
Rock climbing
The first route to the summit is described above. It is likely that any other ascension path has a similar difficulty, which makes it a difficult high peaks.
Books / Leaflets / Cards on Shispare
- High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks by Jill Neate, ISBN 0-89886-238-8
- Batura Muztagh (sketch map and pamphlet ) by Jerzy Wala, 1988.
- Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
- American Alpine Journal, 1975, pp. 215-216
- American Alpine Journal, 1990, pp. 294-295
- American Alpine Journal, 1995, pp. 295-296