Kleinglockner

Kleinglockner (left), behind Grossglockner

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The Kleinglockner is 3,770 meters is the third highest peak in Austria. With a saddle height of only 17 meters, but it is debatable whether one can count it as a separate mountain, or just as a side peak of the Grossglockner. It lies in the Glockner Group in the Central Alps, the central part of the Hohe Tauern. Geographically and geologically, he is regarded as secondary summits of neighboring Grossglockner, in the literature, however, treated separately in view of its alpine importance in some cases. The summit is located as part of the Glockner ridge on the border between Carinthia and East Tyrol. The Kleinglockner has the form of a sharp cutting edge which is covered by the so-called Glockner cornice and can make an ascent of the mountain dangerous or impossible depending on the conditions. The climbing history of the small Glockner is closely linked with that of the Grossglockner, since the first ascent, coming from the south and east, had to cross it.

Climbing history

In the summer of 1799 was built as part of the effort to climb the Grossglockner at 2,750 meters above sea level in the upper Leiter, on the southwest side of the Glockner ridge in a construction period of just one week, a simple hut made ​​of planks and logs. The construction was financed by the Prince-Bishop of Gurk, Franz Xaver Altgraf of Salm Reifferscheid, commissioned and. Remains of a successor building are still visible above the Salmhütte. Two also participated in the construction carpenters of Heiligenblut, Martin and Sepp Klotz, were sent out on 15 June 1799 to explore possible routes to the summit, but they failed because of a snow storm just below the Kleinglockner summit. On July 23, the experiment was repeated using a 74 fathoms of rope, a so-called fixed rope, was brought up, as well as a 7 to 8 fathoms long ladder to overcome the eight -meter-wide Upper Glocknerscharte, 3,766 meters above sea level. On August 20, the prince-bishop met with 30 people, including 19 farmers as carrier, at the cottage. Due to bad weather, it was decided on 22 after lunch when the weather improved, break up. However, through a renewed cold storm on the Glockner ridge, with snow and ice, you had to give up this first expedition and dismounted down to Heiligenblut. However, the two brothers Klotz, the organizer of the enterprise, Ferdinand Joseph Georg Sigismund of Hohenwart, the secretary Johann Zopoth and two other carpenters took on August 25, another shot and got into deep fresh snow on the Kleinglockner summit at which they an endowed by the prince bishop wooden cross erected.

Then the second expedition was planned to Grossglockner For the year 1800, this time more complex and costly than the first. Invited for this company were also then known foreign scientists, as the botanist David Heinrich Hoppe from Regensburg and Christian Friedrich Schwägrichen from Leipzig. The old Salmhütte has been greatly expanded for this purpose. On July 27, 1800 reached 62 people with 16 horses, the Cabin, and the ascent of the Grossglockner was attacked on the 28th. The Klotz brothers and the two are not known by name carpenters wanted to bring the priest Franz Joseph Orrasch from Rangers as the first village on the summit, but refrained and stayed with Sigmund von Hohenwart and Daniel Heinrich Hoppe back on the Kleinglockner. Already on the Hohenwarte, later called Salmhöhe, just below the Adlersruhe remained at 3,282 meters back height of the prince-bishop and the other celebrities from science and clergy. On August 29, 1800 rose four carpenters, this time with the 26 -year-old mathematics student Valentin Stanič, again on the Grossglockner, to build a two fathoms ( twelve feet ) high summit cross.

Geology

Wholesale and Kleinglockner belong to the so-called Upper Schieferhülle, which was during the alpidic orogeny in the early Paleogene, around 66 million years ago, by itself hebendem plutonic rock, the central gneiss raised. Erosion by the shale layers were removed and are available only as frame of the so-called Tauern window. Through this improvement the Glockner group has received its great height. The main rock of the mountains, a fine-grained, very hard and resistant to weathering green slate, which gives the Glockner its dark green color appears Prasinit.

Environment

The Kleinglockner is just under 80 meters in a straight line in a southeasterly direction, separated by the Upper Glocknerscharte, from the Grossglockner. To the east extends the hanging glacier Kleinglocknerkees up to an altitude of 3,660 meters. To the south lies the Ködnitzkees and west of the Luisengrats, the southern continuation of the Stüdlgrats, the Teischnitzkees. Neighboring mountains, apart from Grossglockner, in the southeast, only the Eagle's Rest, with 3,451 meters above sea level and in the further course of the Glockner ridge of the Hohenwart head (named after Sigmund von Hohenwart, 3,308 m) and separated by the Hohenwartscharte ( 3,182 m), nor the 3,267 meter high mountain cellar. To the southeast, the terrain drops down into the Leiter and Ködnitztal, the northern extension of the Kals valley. In the north and east extends the Pasterze, Austria's largest glacier, and in the west lies the valley villages. Next major settlements in the south the approximately 11 line kilometers away Osttiroler Kals am Großglockner and the east, about 12 kilometers away, Heiligenblut in Carinthia.

Points, crossings and routes

The path of the first climb in 1799 began in Heiligenblut, led to the old Salmhütte on the southwest side of the Glockner ridge and on about the little Hohenwartkees, by the Hohenwartscharte up to Salmhöhe about the Eagle's Rest and the east slope to the summit. Today Normal is committed by 1880 opened Archduke Johann hut, on Adlersruhe ( 3,451 m). The road requires as high a tour special equipment, experience and glacier climbing skills in difficulty UIAA II at a Eisneigung to 40 °. The hike to the summit is according to the literature about 1 ½ hours. Particular difficulties may Glockner Wechte prepare a snow cornice that may be on the north side wafted to 50 °. Other ascents and climbing routes, there are over the eastern Glocknerkarkamp called Meletzki ridge, the northern flanks the northeast walls and the famous emerald pillar at the Glockner Kamp- north-east pillar. The difficulty of these routes is between UIAA III to IV and a Eisneigung to 90 ° ( Theo - Riml Memorial increase ).

Sources and maps

• Willi End: Alpine Club leaders Glocknergruppe. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8.
• Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Band. Publisher of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894.
• Raymond of Klebelsberg: Geology of the Tyrol. Brothers Borntraeger, Berlin 1935.
• Alpine Club map 1:25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group.