Piz Bernina

Piz Bernina from which Diavolezza, far right of the Biancograt

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Piz Bernina is the only four-thousand of the Eastern Alps and the highest mountain in the canton of Grisons. The map of Switzerland, 2001 edition, gives his height with 4'048, 6 m above sea level. M. on. The Piz Bernina heard like its neighbors Piz Palu, Piz Roseg and Bella Vista for the Bernina group or just the Bernina. About the mountain Stock runs the border between Italy and Switzerland.

Geography

The mountain consists of three peaks, of which the average is the highest. Slightly lower and hardly separated from the main peak is the South Summit Spalla (La Spedla, 4'020 m). About the southwestern and south-east, the state border runs. The main summit is so - even if this is from the Italian side often presented differently - entirely on Swiss territory. To the north of the main summit is beyond the striking Bernina charter of the northern peak ( Piz Bianco and Romanesque: Piz Alv ). The north summit is the end of firnigen part of Nordgrats ( Bianco, Romanesque: Crast ' Alva ). The latter is often regarded as the most beautiful Eisgrat the Alps.

Piz Bernina is connected to the southwest via the Scerscen - notch with the 3'971 m high Piz Scerscen. In the southeast it is separated by the glaciated Fuorcia Crast ' Agüzza ( 3'591 m ) from the Crast ' Agüzza ( 3,854 m). In the north of Biancograt ends in the Fuorcia Prievlusa ( 3'430 m), behind the back of the comb to Piz Morteratsch ( 3'751 m ) increases.

On the north side of the mountain are the Morteratsch and Tschierva two large glaciers, both of which drain via Flaz Inn and the Danube. Piz Bernina is the highest point in the catchment area of ​​the Danube. On the south side is the Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore another large glacier. This drains through the Val Scerscen via Lanterna and Mallero to Adda.

Tourism

Alpine bases

Switzerland

Accommodations on the Swiss side are the two mountain huts of the SAC Chamanna because Tschierva ( 2,583 m) in Rosegtal and Chamanna because Boval ( 2'495 m) in Morteratsch. The Chamanna because Tschierva is the starting point for the ascent of the Bernina over the Biancograt.

Italy

On the Italian side, the usual rise above the Rifugio Carate ( 2662 m slm ) and the Rifugio Marinelli ( 2813 m slm ) takes place. Also located there is above the Upper Scerscen glacier at the foot of the Spallagrats a outworked, accessible only with glacier equipment base on 3'597 meters above sea level, the Rifugio Marco e Rosa CAI.

Valley communities

Valley is a Pontresina - on the north side - and Chiesa in Valmalenco and Lanzada - on the south side.

First ascent

1850 was the measurer Johann Wilhelm Coaz ( 1822-1918 ) from S- chanf, surveyor in the service Dufour by the Swiss Office of Topography, the order to measure the still nameless summit. On September 13, 1850 Coaz began the ascent from the inn " Berninahäuser » from, along with the two measurement assistants and leaders Jon and Lorenz Ragut Tscharner from the Domleschg. Equipped they were with nailed shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves against the sunlight and long stick to probe columns. About the Morteratschgletscher they reached the labyrinth called split -rich part, which they crossed with great difficulty. About the south side they came to the eastern ridge, probably above the Sass dal Pos ( 3256 m). At 18 clock reached all three of the top, planted the Swiss flag on and put a bottle with a few Grisons coins and a note with her ​​name into a depression.

The descent took place under great troubles over the same route. According to the route description of Coaz compassion on her, so they got the benevolent moon at night by 2 clock, 20 hours after leaving, safely back at the inn Bernina.

Routes

The easiest route from Rifugio Marco e Rosa on the Spalla on the Bernina summit ( Firn and rocky ridge, difficulties in the rock to UIAA II). Another possibility is the much-used Bianco, a combined climbing route on the north ridge of striking Firnschneide (ice to 50 °, at the transition to the summit UIAA III). Far more challenging routes through the rocky western flank. The most famous is probably the one that was committed by Patrick Gabarrou Heymann and Tobias on 17 August 1993 for the first time. This route is rated SS . In addition, an extraordinarily long Gratroute results in difficulty ZS from Porta da Roseg on the Spalla. This celebrated Paul Güssfeldt, Emile Rey and JB Aymonod on 22 September 1887 as the first.

Pictures

View from the west ( Tschiervahütte )

Bernina massif and Morteratschgletscher

Piz Bernina from Piz Morteratsch from